Replacing generic RECEPTACLES

I recently bought cryo-ed 10-2 romex from VH audio and had an electrician install two Oyaide R1 duplexes with two runs of 10-2 romex to my breaker panel, so each duplex has it's own 10-2 dedicated run. One run is the cryo-ed wire from VH Audio and one run is standard 10-2 from Home Depot. Why? Well I thought I bought enough cryo-ed romex for both runs but I was short. I did not buy any fancy faceplates for the Oyaide R1 duplexes. My electrician covered them with standard cheap plastic faceplates. If anyone wants to try to convince me that the faceplate makes a difference, have at it but I am not buying it. I have an Isotek Syncro plugged into the Oyaide and than it goes to an Isotek Aquarius conditioner and all my gear is in turn plugged into the Aquarius. My electrician informed me that higher quality breakers were not an option with my Cutler-Hammer breaker box-that it would only accept one breaker. I am skeptical of that, but I went with what he told me anyway. My first observation was that it took a ton of force to install the male plug on my Isotek Syncro into the Oyaide duplex. In fact, I thought I had it all the way in and then noticed days later that there was an 1/8" gap that required more pushing to eliminate. Point; incredibly tight fit on the Oyaide female blades. Do I hear any difference between the new duplexes and the old "standard" hospital grade plug and 12-3 romex that was my pre-existing dedicated line? Nope. Maybe a tiny bit but not worth the $600 I spent for the materials and installation. The biggest change to my ears was the Isotek Syncro and Aquarius. They made my ARC Ref 6, Arc Ref 150 SE and DeVore 0/93's collectively snap into focus and made my bass sound more authoritative and real. The Isotek gear and Cardas Clear cabling made the biggest differences overall compared to my pre-existing power conditioning (none) and cabling (a mixture of Black Cat and Acoustic Zen). 

I have the Oyaide outlet plates and covers and I’m darned if I can tell if they make a difference ... certainly pretty low on the value for money scale. They’re also a pain to fit and I have had threads stripped due to poor manufacturing tolerances.

Whatever outlet face plate you choose it will still vibrate as the small number of and poorly positioned screws don’t hold any outlet plate securely. Adding some fOQ material to damp the plate to the outlet surround will be both cheap and audible (but look as ugly as hell)

Agree with the last 2 posts regarding the inexpensive but quite effective Porter Ports and hospital grade +cryo treated = why not, doesn’t cost too much more. Funny to me how so many folks I KNOW spend 100.00 or more for fancy fuses and STILL have .35 cheap contractor track house grade recepticles, they’re garbage and should be immediately replaced prior to plugging in expensive audio electronics. I haven’t tried some of the pricier receptacles but would venture still a wiser investment FIRST over boutique fuses. At the very least commercial grade at a few bucks each would provide a better more effective grip without the  worry of arcing caused by a weighty furtech plugged into a .35 receptacle.

One useful cheap tool to use in the ever exciting world of AC power is a "GreenLee GT-16 Adjustable Voltage Detector" They now cost about $23 on Amazon. (Other brands do not work as well for sniffing stray AC The GT -16 has a good adjustable range, and works well for AC) Once you have one, you can sniff out all the stray voltage escaping from your AC wires, plugs, and equipment screens etc..So odd things too, Like pole lamps spray a ton of AC contamination.. When the basic zip cord in running up inside the metal lamp pole.. Another place are umbilicals of two box preamps. I own two of them And both umbilicals spray a ton of 300V stuff (Both use tubes)
ALL AC outlets spray electrons out the unblocked holes..
One of the reasons I still like Pangea power cords is they are REALLY well shielded. No stray voltage there. *except atthe molded plug ends)
So with the GT-16, I can see I stop all the stray voltage out of a duplex with the brass plate. (if the holes in the duplex outlet (for plugs) are filled with metal body grounded plugs.
That is all you are doing with the Carbon Fiber one too.

I also find the Teflon plumbers tape tweak to stop the escape of stray voltage from duplex.
That is wrap each AC plug 3 metal prong bases with a few turns around each prong base with the tape. The plug, when inserted the duplex will push the tape and crush it between the plug and duplex, creating a insulation shield where that small space of blade is exposed... so the sneaky electrons do not sneak out the crack. naturally I cannot hear any difference with this. But it is a dexterity challenge, and fun to mess with. One time added and usually the Teflon tape will stay in place over several pluggings. and unpluggings.
Complete waste of time, but for fanatics... Nothing is to obscure or odd.

@elizabeth ....Thank you for your explanation on the Brass outlet covers...I am going to take you opinion and fly with it...Thank you for saving me about $ 615, on those 2 carbon fiber covers from Oyaide. I will now use Brass dual duplex , and a Brass single duplex with my 3 Furutech GTX-d r