this should solve your problem:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27678&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3cOLztnJ3AIVStbACh0tUgtXEAQYASABE...
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27678&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3cOLztnJ3AIVStbACh0tUgtXEAQYASABE...
New to this. How do I stack my stuff?
this should solve your problem: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27678&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3cOLztnJ3AIVStbACh0tUgtXEAQYASABE... |
I can understand the wife factor but with the componet rack it would only take up the floor space the amp is already taking up the other pieces go over it in the same space. It would make it look less like mission control. If you're handy with wood then look up amp stands and make something similar. I made an open box like you're talking about and stacked a DAC over a cd player once. |
I've been using Vibrapods (and another rubbery set of footers the brand of which I don't remember) under all my gear for years with excellent results, and they certainly do not render the sound "less lively." In a simple, somewhat "non audiophile" rack I have a tube SE amp running hot (as designed) on the middle shelf with open sides all around and 8" above it, the tube preamp above that on the next shelf with lots of air around it, and my CD player on the top with the dac and streamer...works for me. The lowest shelf has a rarely used tuner and power conditioner for everything. Next to this stuff my turntable is on top of another sturdy rack/stand (this one is supposedly "audiophile") with the phono amp below it and some LPs on the bottom. Vibrapods under the Klipsch Heresy III speakers also. Lively, coherent, and very musical. |
djones, I'm fairly handy with wood. I can't do anything fancy but I build built-in bookshelves with simple lines. There are plans to put built-in shelves where my system sits now but that project is months down the road and will require a re-design to accommodate this system (and for my wife to get used to the idea that it is staying.) wloeb, that unit does not look bad at all (I was thinking steel and chrome) and it certainly is cheap. I'll let my wife take a look at it and see what she thinks. It is cheap enough that if it gets put aside when I build the built-ins it wouldn't be a huge waste of money. It says it will hold 75 pounds. I'll check the specs on the amp. It feels like it weighs 200 pounds but that is because all the weight is in the front. But I'm guessing 50 pounds. What puzzles me about a rack is that structurally it is tying everything together which I thought was what you wanted to avoid. I suppose using some sort of isolating feet on each component might help that. whart, I read that article. And it helps understand what is at stake but it did not seem to clarify whether the goal is isolation or integration. You guys have to admit that using graphite (very hard) in one application and rubber-like materials in another is confusing. I guess experimentation is key here. |
I m cheap at heart. So I can appreciate the effort to not spend anything. The amp as it is is GREAT. The CD and pre not so good.The table steadiness matters greatly. If you can move it horizontally, not good. Also if flimsy the vibrations from speakers will affect the CD player a lot. If nothing can be done abut the table then: The sorbothane feet are a MUST. 3/4" Sorbothane feet are $15 on Amazon. Half globe shape in different sizes The one problem is they WILL stain a wood finish. The solution is a sheet of paper. Cut small under each sorbothane pad.I personally used size 10 butyl rubber chemical bottle stoppers $1.50 each. But they are hard to find. Raising the pre away from the CD is a good idea. any sort of riser will work. A few blocks of wood? or more rubber bottle stoppers... One free trick is to tilt the preamp up in front (or in back).. Thus making the heat from the CD FLOW away toward the front or back, faster. It only takes a 1/4: rise at one end to cause the heat to flow away, instead of baking the component above. (if the above component had a face which extends past the bottom, tilt so the back is up.not the front, as the face sticking down blocks airflow .. not as good) also so the bottom component sticks out a little more at that end the heat is going TO, and the top a little less, if possible. Do NOT cut your speaker cables. Sooner or later you may want to change stuff around. And the then too short speaker cables will be annoying. From experience anything cable can be too long and never a real problem. Even one inch too short? major problem. So do not cut the cables. Yes try to separate the power cables from the IC. or s they cross but not parallel for any distance. |