A certain online retailer asked me for a review of Pangea power cords..

Over the past year I’ve extensively auditioned some very nice and, at least for my budget, somewhat pricey, amps, - including a VAC, PHI 200 a pair of $10K per ea, Ayre mono amps, and a PrimaLuna Dialogue Premium HP as well as Vincent and others. They all came equipped with power cords and ea. in their own right, sounded very, very good. We, an audiophile friend and I, auditioned them, mostly through Wilson, Sophia II speakers. Not once, during extensive auditions, were we inclined to believe that what any of the amps really needed, to truly sound good, was a nifty $10K power cord.
If you are buying a $25K amp and it comes with no power cord and the manufacture requires a multi thousand dollar power cord to make it sound good - I’d ditch that dawg fast and buy a VAC - they sound spectacular and come with their own cord....just sayn...Jim

Exaggerating? just a little. $10K power cords are not needed to have better sound. $200 do pretty good too. And in fact, after owning hat VAC for a year, THEN you try another powercord, you might discover you DO like it with a better cord. Just sayin'.

@elizabeth Exaggerating? :-) Maybe a little, but there are some who do believe that a multi $K cord is what it takes. I know better!
A $200.00 power cord, I can almost understand. For about $60.00, I can build a very, very good cable that would deliver clean, unrestricted power from a wall socket or conditioner, to any 120V, SS or tube amplifier or component and it would last a lifetime. Not everyone has the time, understanding or ability to build good cords or cables, so I can believe that $200.00, for some, to get a real good power cord, might not be unreasonable.
I also know that there are a good many, cheaply made, outlet receptacles, out there (in fact, some I wouldn't want to plug my toaster into) but companies like Hubbell and Leviton have been making industrial and hospital grade receptacles for a very long time - using durable, lossless, contact materials, quality shell materials and have a history of sound design and build. I'm not disputing that there are other good companies out there, who make fine outlet receptacles, but beyond what has been proven to provide a tight, durable lossless, connection and able to hold up to many years of use without loosing the integrity of that connection - everything else is smoke and mirrors...Jim

On the topic of receptacles. Went to the local Home Depot a few days ago, walked over to the electrical dept. and grabbed a 3 prong replacement male plug. I pushed it into the typical $3 receptacle with ease, and pulled it out with ease. I then pushed it into a $10 Orange hospital grade outlet, it was difficult to push in. While removing it, if I did not hold the outlet with one hand and pull on the plug with the other, I think the outlet would have came of the board. $10 is a small price to pay for such a secure connection. 

Some things that many audiophiles, always on the quest for something better and more expensive, don't get about hospital grade receptacles:1) they have to meet very stringent, Federal, State and Local Codes for quality, grip, conductance and reliability. 2) Their contacts, screws and blade contacts, are made of high quality nickle plated brass, the purpose being:  On point to point contact, as in a receptacle, the voltage transfer is considered lossless - meaning there is no measurable voltage loss and no altering affect on the transfer of voltage. Unlike copper - nickel plated brass is tough - it holds it's grip and stays durable, even after many cycles of plugging and un-plugging. While the surface of copper tends to glaze when exposed to oxygen, causing a lose of conductivity - nickel/bras does not. The properties of nickel plated brass, even after many years of continual current, have proven to be very stable. If there is a sonic quality attributed to a tight, conductive connection, you can expect it to start out very good and remain the same for a long time, without the many hours of break in associated with some outlets.
Re. cables: of course, insulated stranded 99.9 pure, Ox free copper, of adequate gauge (14, 12, or 10 AWG - depending on application) rubber sleeved and shielded or chocked with a ferrite clamp in areas of possible EMI/RFI interference.
If you live in one of those rare areas of bad power, don't expect expensive power cables to fix it for you - get a line conditioner. Much more effective and, in the end, would probably save you a considerable bit of $$$...JMO...Jim