Perfect Path Technologies: Omega E mat

Hey.... I cheated and asked Timmy. He said wick a little bit of lubricant, either silicone, PB Blaster or WD 40....you just have to be careful because petroleum based lubricants will attack rubber and some plastics. With that said, lightly spray little short blasts, the cap head screw will suck it in a tiny bit. Let it sit for one to two days, and it should break away, no problem-o. <3 Krissy & Timmy

Hi,

WD40 works well for rusted or gunk seized treads, but my real concern is if the units screw threads where intentionally thread locked or threads possible flatted to tamper proof the unit and keep prying hands out.

The force needed does seem like the hex head may "round" if further force was used.

Just wondering how and where inside the unit could paint some Total contact.

Thanks

Hey. Timmy said if the company has used red thread lock, it's heat only.... and it's high heat. Not positive, but I think it's 800+ degrees. A solder tip should do the trick, unless the screw is going through a PC board... but even then, you should be OK. Torch....NO-NO. 
Tamper-proof we've seen? One company will  strip out the hex. You have to drill  out the countersunk screw .... a countersink bit, drill press and a real soft touch. You should be able to do without marring the surrounding case. Call Timmy tomorrow, he'll explain in more detail. . . . Good night. Krissy and Tim

Justtubes2 ...

 No problem getting my hex screws out. I just used a hex wrench. My problem was that there were three sizes of wrenches needed to remove the screws on just the cover. 

Frank

People please use common sense. As stated in its literature Total Contact is HIGHLY CONDUCTIVE. Painting the entire inside of a power conditioner is dangerous! They put "tamper proof" hex screws on there for a reason! Its very irresponsible for anyone, especially a manufacturer, to advise people to drill them out and offer to give advice on how to do so.