No one actually knows how to lculate what speaker cable they need


It goes back to cable manufaturars, mostly provide no relevant data! to sales and the users. None will answer this!
Whay do you think that you own now the optimal cable to your setup?
I think I've figured it out. 


b4icu
b4icu,

Guess I’ll school you some more if that’s what you want.

If you’re using speakers with benign phase angles and unabusive impedance fluctuations, you hardly need a damping factor at all. Having some insanely high damping factor doesn’t add anything! A factor of 15 or 20 is plenty sufficient and there’s plenty of amps that prove that, chief among them the First Watt J2 and many SET amps.

All gain devices become more nonlinear as they swing larger voltage. There’s a good argument to be made for speakers designed to be benign and efficient, but a more reactive speaker has advantages as well, such as utilizing current draw and phase angles to bully the drivers into behaving. Even with the most reactive speakers a damping factor more than 200 is pretty much pointless. How much do you want the amp to misbehave in response to the speaker? That’s why McIntosh likes their output transformers on their SS amps. They give a DF around 50 or so and keep the gain devices behaving like proper voltage sources.

With pairs of MOSFETs, JFETs, or BJTs as output devices you’re going to get a DF around 50. Double the number and you get about double the damping factor. At some point you’re not well optimized by using more gain devices and for the vast majority of amps that’s around 2 or 3 pairs for mid power amps. So if you want more damping factor you’re adding negative feedback. You can add 95% of the open loop gain and get a VERY high damping factor. 1500 or so is totally possible with enough feedback. It’s very easy to do. Nobody does it because it sounds like hell. We learned a long time ago damping factor isn’t the end all. The techniques to get a very high damping factor always contribute to more complex distortion. Since damping factor primarily effects bass, the trade off tends to be more controlled bass at the expense of brighter, more grating treble because of the more complex distortion.

You speak as though impedance is the only act in town. You don’t seem to grasp that a damping factor describes the inductance and capacitance of the circuit. When an amplifier damps an uncontrolled woofer, it’s acting as a giant inductor. All these electrical characteristics play an equal role, and you don’t seem to grab that. Nobody should take you seriously.
Mr. khiak
The Goldmund Telos 600 does not specify the DF.
Please be kind to check it up for me.
The other data I need is the cable required length.
Thanks

Mr.  kosst_amojan

Beside your unpleasant opening, you are missing the point by a mile.

I'm not into design an amplifier with some desired or undesired DF. We all own it already.

This amp. we own, has a given DF. No matter how high or low it is.

 

The subject of this thread is what speaker cables we need to connect that amp. to the speakers.

Your long lecture (more likely a show off in amplifiers build) is not on the subject.

As so, you are welcome to open your own thread, about whatever you think is in your interest.

For my thread, none of your educated lecture is good.

@b4icu
Honestly speaking, I have tried some different M1 settings in combination with the ribbons, but to my ears no major differences. I'm working out of town, so I can't check what the last settings are. All I can confirm that even IF there are differences, I can't distinguish them from each other with my ears, and using ribbons. In my case, other factors have a much bigger influence on the overall sound, and mainly with regards to room acoustics. Main reason for acquiring the M1 is related to dynamics and transparency. I can only judge by listening, I'm not an electrical engineer so I have to go with what my ears tell me. 
 Hi b4icu,
I cannot find the DF in the Goldmund Telos 600 manual. The cable length is 1.5 m. Thanks