Bryston 9B ST FIVE CHANNEL vs Rotel RMB-1585 5ch

Generally I think amplifiers do not have a sound and if they did then it is not a good amplifier in my opinion.

Most of the features you are talking about is how the amplifier can drive and control your speakers well. So that the sound has the attributes you are look for in general. 

A high current amplifier with good damping factor and good class A bias(I am thinking 10 to 20 watts Class A bias will be good for most listening situation). Most amplifiers that are rated for 8 Ohm but can double watts to 4 Ohm and is spec'd to be stable to 2 Ohm is a good amplifier. There is a reason most folks don't state 2 Ohm stability, this is something you have to ask about.

It is hard for anyone to be objective about amplifier, some one will say X amp sounds good with B&W, but then you have break down on why X sounds good otherwise the count of X is quite high. 

http://www.parasound.com/a21+.php , one option is the older A21 used, if I am not mistaken first 10 watts are class A. But either ways keep this mind when going with a Class A/B amp. 

@geek101 

Good advice. Thx.  I don't see Class A rating specs within normal list of specs on any of the amps I have been researching. How does one acquire such info to make a better, informed decision in amplifier choice?

@lighfighter2018 email or call the company , sometimes reviewers mention this. Ask around here.

I found Benchmark AHB2 to be such an amp it is like class A but with lower (ridiculously)
distortion. But it is $2k used if even one can get it.

But I found it to be cheaper to lot of class A/B amps and be better at specs in every way. 

get the oddssey 3 channel amp and a 2 channel, and enjoy 20 year warranty,  stable to 2 ohms.      much better sound than rotel.
better midrange, better low end driver control, doesnt sound so industrial as those rotels.

none of the amps in this price range new will be true class A,   true class A is easy to spot, if the amp is running and you can hold your hand on it for 20 seconds its most likely not true class a, and it should weight at least a pound per watt.   takes heavier electronics to hold the higher bias current at class A . its very inefficient hence the heat...  You will see them on your power bill every month, mine cost more to run that a hot tub on the power bill.

I auditioned the newer Marantz AV preamps but the system that they switched to for calibration sucked - very difficult to get a decent result compared to the old way of setting up (easy if you have a friend with $20K of special pro instrumentation to do the job). I went with the 7702 Mk 2 as the last one to allow.

No experience with the Bryston, but have always respected their gear and still have a couple of pieces from them in my systems.