RF-7's can sound great and are very sensitive to a thorough set-up and quality processor. My 30 x 30 carpeted space also has lots of fabric window treatments.
As a "pre-A-Gonner" newbee in 2003, I bought a full RF-7 HT set-up through a dealer. Connected to a new Yamaha "higher end" reciever, they sounded harsh on every sound field through the Yamaha, even after soldering upgraded tweeter resistors to smooth them out. I added a Proceed AMP 5. It helped. One Audiogon gent has resistor's that are easy to solder into place right at the tweeter crossovers.
After I upgraded to a Proceed AVP2 +6 processor with the matching AMP 5, the RF-7 set sounded much cleaner and smoother.
In a big room, compared to the RF-7's, the RC-7 (center) was too small for a full sounding center channel. I was considering a extra Rf-7 for my center, then connected the RF-7's toed-in as dual monos as my center.
I found a exceptional set of mid-1980's Yamaha powered monitors and connected them using the pre-out mains from the AVP2. I now have the RF-7's toed-in and connected in mono off the AMP 5 as my center HT soundstage. The matching Klipsch 8 inch ceiling surrounds blend very well. The RC-7 is removed from the system.
OPPO 981 settings: My OPPO 981 DAC's are bypassed and it is only being used as a transport. The OPPO's internal settings are very important. In my system, all sound reproduction sounds best set on "raw", 5.1 (multi-channel OUT), compression defeated, all speakers set to Large in the OPPO, and HDMI audio off. All OPPO soundfields are off. I use one good digital coax cable, and 6 Mogami Gold cables for multi-channel. The optical out isn't as clear as the coax.
My Proceed goes up to 192kHz as does the OPPO. On DVD's and most redbook CD's etc., the sound is awesome at 192. However, some poorly recorded redbook CD's sound cleanest at 96kHz with minimal digital interference. The OPPO's Pro Logic II (rarely used) is bipassed to use the Proceed's internal PL II processor. OPPO Dolby Digital is set to stereo.
The Proceed allows switching between DD or DD w/THX. Both sound great at 196 with very smooth horns. OPPO's HDMI video is connected directly to a Sony 60" LCD.
My Sub - SVS Ultra PB-13 - sounds best crossed at 50Hz with my particular mains. I ran in-room calibrations seperately on the mains using a sound level meter and test disk to determine the best crossover (lowest is best). The THX recommended 80Hz was NOT, by far, as enjoyable as the 50 Hz setting in my system.
If I ran the full RF-7 set up without the powered Yamaha's, I'd re-calibrate the RF-7's first, then the sub separately. I flattened a 60Hz SVS Ultra "bump" with the "Q" setting. It smoothed out the entire soundfield. My Ultra is about 8 feet from the listening area (slightly behind and to the side) and elevated at ear level. Huge musical difference from a distant muddy corner or wall placement. It's completely free standing - no corners or walls for additional loading.
These are simply my experiences to consider. Each one effected the overall presentation of the RF-7 horns in some way.
It sounds so good, I rarely switch between soundfields. 99% of the time, I can't percieve any horn harshness. Before, it was a constant battle to clean up the sound. To me, this is MiracleLand. I'm also a stringed instrument musician and percussionist, and have a very well-trained set of ears.
The right processor and sub crossed as low as possible can really make RF-7's sound great for HT and music. To me, a great sub properly calibrated is critical. I don't feel the RF-7's play with enough deep authority "low down" as full range fronts - and need a matching sub. A fast Klipsch sub may be best to match the RF-7's. The Ultra is great, too.
My active Yamaha mains each have sealed 15's, three fabulous 6 inch mids, and six monster dome tweeters - perfectly matched.
Hope this helps someone out there.
As a "pre-A-Gonner" newbee in 2003, I bought a full RF-7 HT set-up through a dealer. Connected to a new Yamaha "higher end" reciever, they sounded harsh on every sound field through the Yamaha, even after soldering upgraded tweeter resistors to smooth them out. I added a Proceed AMP 5. It helped. One Audiogon gent has resistor's that are easy to solder into place right at the tweeter crossovers.
After I upgraded to a Proceed AVP2 +6 processor with the matching AMP 5, the RF-7 set sounded much cleaner and smoother.
In a big room, compared to the RF-7's, the RC-7 (center) was too small for a full sounding center channel. I was considering a extra Rf-7 for my center, then connected the RF-7's toed-in as dual monos as my center.
I found a exceptional set of mid-1980's Yamaha powered monitors and connected them using the pre-out mains from the AVP2. I now have the RF-7's toed-in and connected in mono off the AMP 5 as my center HT soundstage. The matching Klipsch 8 inch ceiling surrounds blend very well. The RC-7 is removed from the system.
OPPO 981 settings: My OPPO 981 DAC's are bypassed and it is only being used as a transport. The OPPO's internal settings are very important. In my system, all sound reproduction sounds best set on "raw", 5.1 (multi-channel OUT), compression defeated, all speakers set to Large in the OPPO, and HDMI audio off. All OPPO soundfields are off. I use one good digital coax cable, and 6 Mogami Gold cables for multi-channel. The optical out isn't as clear as the coax.
My Proceed goes up to 192kHz as does the OPPO. On DVD's and most redbook CD's etc., the sound is awesome at 192. However, some poorly recorded redbook CD's sound cleanest at 96kHz with minimal digital interference. The OPPO's Pro Logic II (rarely used) is bipassed to use the Proceed's internal PL II processor. OPPO Dolby Digital is set to stereo.
The Proceed allows switching between DD or DD w/THX. Both sound great at 196 with very smooth horns. OPPO's HDMI video is connected directly to a Sony 60" LCD.
My Sub - SVS Ultra PB-13 - sounds best crossed at 50Hz with my particular mains. I ran in-room calibrations seperately on the mains using a sound level meter and test disk to determine the best crossover (lowest is best). The THX recommended 80Hz was NOT, by far, as enjoyable as the 50 Hz setting in my system.
If I ran the full RF-7 set up without the powered Yamaha's, I'd re-calibrate the RF-7's first, then the sub separately. I flattened a 60Hz SVS Ultra "bump" with the "Q" setting. It smoothed out the entire soundfield. My Ultra is about 8 feet from the listening area (slightly behind and to the side) and elevated at ear level. Huge musical difference from a distant muddy corner or wall placement. It's completely free standing - no corners or walls for additional loading.
These are simply my experiences to consider. Each one effected the overall presentation of the RF-7 horns in some way.
It sounds so good, I rarely switch between soundfields. 99% of the time, I can't percieve any horn harshness. Before, it was a constant battle to clean up the sound. To me, this is MiracleLand. I'm also a stringed instrument musician and percussionist, and have a very well-trained set of ears.
The right processor and sub crossed as low as possible can really make RF-7's sound great for HT and music. To me, a great sub properly calibrated is critical. I don't feel the RF-7's play with enough deep authority "low down" as full range fronts - and need a matching sub. A fast Klipsch sub may be best to match the RF-7's. The Ultra is great, too.
My active Yamaha mains each have sealed 15's, three fabulous 6 inch mids, and six monster dome tweeters - perfectly matched.
Hope this helps someone out there.