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Furman Elite 15 PFi - how to tell if everything is working

Hello all.  I just purchaced a used Furman power conditioner. I already have a lesser set of Furmans working in my system. My sound is extremely quiet, rich and spacious already, so I'm not expecting any big improvement in the sound.  The reason I'm buying the Elite 15 PFi is because I have a lot of equipment on my 15 amp services (no way I'll ever re-wire to 20 amp).
While I don't think I'm having problems (never tripped one of the breakers), just the draw from my Magnepan 1.7i speakers on my Bryston 4bst amps can be significant at peak volumes.  I generally like my peak volumes to be in the mid to upper 80 db range. I have had a few instances where - at peak volumes or a times of load vocal chorus' only - the music might sound slightly harsh.
What interests me about the Elite 15 PFi is the extra headroom they can supply to help with instantaneous peak power requirements. I have read enough people say they hear no difference between their amp being plugged into the wall or into the Elite 15 PFi, so I figured I would give the Furman a try.
My question: If I A/B test the sound - Amp plugged into wall vs. Amp plugged into Furman, and I hear a detrimental difference in the sound, I guess I'll know the Furman is working.  But, I have read a few posts saying the Furman power factor componant of their Furman wasn't working.  What if I hear no difference between wall and Furman?  How do I know if the Furman is working? 
Any way to easily tell?

Thanks,
toolbox149
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cleeds
2,065 posts
 
toolbox149
... I have read a few posts saying the Furman power factor componant of their Furman wasn't working.  What if I hear no difference between wall and Furman?  How do I know if the Furman is working?
It's unusual for power factor to be a problem with residential AC service, although it can happen. To verify that the Furman is working properly, you could measure PF at the receptacle and at the Furman output.
toolbox149 OP
135 posts
 
I don’t think Furman is actually using the term "power factor" in any kind of the usual industrial sense of power factor correction. Their naming refers more to power headroom or extra power draw capacity, so a normal check of the actual power factor of my house is not going to be an applicable test. Not a lot of industry on my electric distribution line or big motors in my home either.
I’m hoping someone familiar with these models, could offer some sort of a "do-this-and-then-look-for-this" type of a little test.

Thanks,
erik_squires
5,268 posts
 
@toolbox149
I'll let the link speak for itself:
https://www.furmanpower.com/furman-technologies/power-factor-technology
Best,
E
erik_squires
5,268 posts
 
@toolbox149

I also want to point out that just because something is working doesn't mean it has a benefit for you right now.

Like the fabulous surge protection. You really won't benefit from it until you have a surge.

The Furman SMP and LiFT are also great at removing noise, but if you have no noise ... then you probably will never heat it. :)

It all depends on your existing AC quality and the particular power supplies you use.

Me, for technical and audible reasons I'm a big fan of Furman.

Best,
E
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