Bi-amp question


Ok... I have recently purchased a set of psb synchrony ones and a NAD M3 amp(180 wpc)... if were to add another amp, say a Rotel RB-1170(130 wpc) for bi-amping... which way would make the most sense to wire them up? NAD for the Highs and Rotel for the Lows? or vice versa???

I would obviously need to experiment with them to see which way sounds best to my ears... just wondering if there were any ground rules...
sbrooks32
03-11-12: Kr4
"I'm doing vertical passive biamp on one of my systems and it does perform better than other single amp configurations, but the speakers are unique in that they take advantage of it. "

Can you explain how the speakers are designed to take advantage of passive bi-amping?
yes, with hindsight I can see that deserves clarification. Indeed if I hadn't posted that in such a hurry I would have reworded it. I don't speak with authority on this - it's simply my experience, with my system.

I don't know how, or even if thay are designed to take advantage of biamping. They are Von Schweikert VR4GenIII's with 2 separate modules (Bass and Mid-high), each with its own crossover. When I was deciding on amps for that system I called Von Scwheikert to ask them for advice. Albert Von Schweikert answered the phone personally (on about the 3rd ring). The question I asked was "Will they perform better with vertical biamping, or with a more powerful single amp?" . . . or some wording like that. Albert went on to talk at length about the VR4GenIIIs and biamping. He first said 2 identical amps vertically biamped would out perform a single higher output amp. He further advocated running tubes on the top, SS on the bottom.

I experimented with multiple amps both biamp and non. Tubes on the top, single tube amp full range. This is how I reached my judgements. I like the vertical biamp arrangement that I have now best of those I tried. The setup I ran with tubes on the top was getting too complicated so I abandoned it. I tried single amps costing more than the 2 amps I have now; however I have not tried all of the amps, just quite a few ;-) .

I have also tried biamping on other speakers. Passive vertical biamping using Totem Mani-2s (in my other system) was fruitless (just as Totem's Support rep told me it would be). When I say 3 out of 4 tries weren't worth the effort, I mean it literally. That's how many systems I tried. For me though it was about learning/experimenting, just trying different stuff..
yes, with hindsight I can see that deserves clarification. Indeed if I hadn't posted that in such a hurry I would have reworded it. I don't speak with authority on this - it's simply my experience, with my system.

I don't know how, or even if thay are designed to take advantage of biamping.......

Thanks.
Ok... I have recently purchased a set of psb synchrony ones and a NAD M3 amp(180 wpc)... if were to add another amp, say a Rotel RB-1170(130 wpc) for bi-amping... which way would make the most sense to wire them up? NAD for the Highs and Rotel for the Lows? or vice versa???
....

looks like what you are wanting to try out is "dual amping" your speakers 'cuz you will continue to use the factory provided built-in x-overs.
This might or might not be beneficial, as others have already stated.
The highest probability of success (if there is any for your situation) will occur when you have 2 identical stereo amps OR 4 identical mono amps 'cuz you will not have to worry about amplifier gain, amplifier sensitivity, amplifier sonics, amplifier headroom, amplifier current delivery capability, etc. For any other situation, it's a hit or miss - the difference in the different amplifiers' capability might negate any benefit of dual-amping.
True biamping is more complex that simply dual-amping - the ultra-purist (& IMO the bold) will completely gutt or simply disconnect the entire factory provided x-over & use an external (tube/s.s) xover & the purist will disconnect the bass xover while keeping the mid/tweeter xover & still use an external xover. Usually the external xover is used between the preamp & power amp to avoid using multiple preamps.
DACT has a 10k, 0 to -12 dB in 0.5 dB steps, "fine tuning" attenuator that can tame different amps. Easy enough to add series resistance if required (50K for some tube preamps). Inline with the "stronger" amp after the Y. Another pair of IC's, a small project box (Goldpoint?) and a drill, a knob, 4 female RCAs, hook-up wire and a bit of soldering.

Don't try this with pots.
The concern over "different sounding amps" makes no sense. The drivers powered by the two amps are totally different technology, with sound characteristic differences far greater than that between two amps.