thanks everyone - really apprecite the tips and feedback but unfortunately my unit has STILL not arrived. Will it every? who knows. i bought is for $40 equiv!? The fig 8 to IEC i bought cost nearly half that and that's arrived! oh well...one can hope. In the meantime, i'm really enjoying my audiomeca with the Ack! Dac non oversampling/filterless DAC. nice but correctly tweaked, my audiomeca still sounds best to my ears. Can't wait to compare the PsOne.
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I've posted my findings on the PS1 on this thread: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?ddgtl&1176210779&read&keyw&zzplaystation For a little fun in changing the appearance of the PS1, check this out: http://www.interesting-devices.com/asp/product.asp?recorprod=1&product=192&cat=62&ph=&keywords=&recor=&SearchFor=&PT_ID= I'm going for the smoked black case myself, but the blue one is attractive too. As for trying the cro-treated IEC/C-7 adapters with IEC power cords, my friend tried one with his Kimber Select power cord and thought my PS Audio Power Punch C7 sounded better. Afterwards, he bought one himself and hasn't looked back. I have no doubt that the Kimber Select PC is a fine power cord, but one more interface in the power chain might compromise the sound a bit. On top of that, the PS Audio Power Punch C7 fits snugly inside the Playstations C8 recepticle. For only $50, I was very impressed with the quality of construction and the flexibility of the cable. Since the PS1 uses a potentially noisy (RF noise) switch mode power supply (SMPS), the shielding drained to the ground pin on the PS Audio power cord really helps in improving the dynamic range and frequency extension at both ends. My recommendation list on improvements with highest to lowest priority is: 1. Good-excellent RCA interconnect cables 2. Isolation feet like Isonodes or round 3M Bumpon feet (x3, two under front and one under rear) 3. Power cord replacement with PS Audio Power Punch C7 or other C7 power cords like the Furutech G-320Ag-18F8 or Oyaide L/i 15 dpc (recommend using a continuity checker to identify correct polarity) 4. Clean all audio and power contacts with residue-free contact cleaner 5. Replace power supply fuse with either Isoclean or Hi Fi Tuning 5mm x 20mm audiophile fuse. These really make a big difference and for only $25 or $30, it's a bargain. |
Reviving this thread, as I've had a Playstation in my system for a week now and couldn't be happier. With no warm-up at all, I plugged it in and spun a disc, and my wife and I looked at each other and broke out laughing it sounded so good. I've kept it on since, and I don't know that the sound has improved, but it's stayed steadily, delightfully great. It resolves enormously well--there's a sense of palpability to vocals, a timbral rightness to acoustic instruments, and low-level detail emerges from a clear backdrop. I could go on, but the point is this: if you're shopping for a CD player, spending $25 bucks on one of these might save you a few hundred or more. Look on half.com, where the prices are low and firm. I have the 5501 with the A/V multi out, which doesn't let you use great interconnects but to my understanding bypasses an op-amp leading to the RCAs in the 1001 version (same DAC). Some prefer the A/V out and build cables for it; I haven't felt the urge yet. |
I bought one as a lark for 30 bucks and have to agree with the above that after a few days it was impressive. FYI, sued with mapleshade cork blocks and greg straleys reality ICs. Too bad after my son picked it up, and moved it a few inches, it stopped tracking. But to put my money where my mouth is i just bought another one on ebay and ordered a PS audio power punch. Hopefully it will be a bit more durable. If anyone wants one for parts let me know. Im loathe to believe that a fuse change can make a real difference but im willing to try. So what fuse brand and value would you reccomend. Also after opening up the unit i see the fuse is locked down with clamps. How does one get that little sucker out. Forgive me but im technically incompetent. |
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