Define power hungry...B&W speakers

Here's one more example for you that may help in your selection. You picked your B&W's for a reason. On paper, your CDM 1NT's look like countless other small speakers. You can find another pair of speakers of a similar design and specs, and for much less than what you spent on them. The reason you went for the B&W's is because you like the way they sound. You took the necessary step, and crossed over from the objective to the subjective. If you didn't do that, you couldn't justify the purchase. It's the same thing with any other component. If you set some goals as to what you expect from a new amp or integrated amp as far as sound quality, it will be a great help. You can still make a mistake, but you lower the chances. Try not to worry too much about the specs. I think you easily have the ability to make a sensible choice as to how powerful an amp you need. If you're not sure, just post what ever amp you are considering, and someone here should be able to tell you if it will drive your speakers, or not.

One last thing. Don't get sucked into the cable trap. Cables do make a difference, but so many people put way too much money into cables when it could have been used to buy better components. Not only that, but if you get good components and match them well, cable choice is very easy.

I use the 700 series which replace the CDMA NT. Both use the Nautilus tweeter (NT). I also own 600 and 800 series and these are a sweet spot. Easy to drive like 600 series but much more refined.

You do not need a massive amp but a good 100 wpc integrated is ideal in my experience. My 50 wpc Linn and Rega integrated were fine but at low volume, I found my 100 wpc McIntosh or modern Yamaha integrateds were a lot better. A big NAD works well too. A nice tube amp will be a good choice too as long as it is not one of those really small one. A 75 wpc Cary or McIntosh is a good choice.

These are very high quality and revealing speaker so they will reward care in your set up. I use Transaprent audio cable as the little network boxes were very good at suppressing line noise which the NT are reproducing. I use some level of isolation on all components in the chain, even the amps. Again these speaker will allow you to hear the differences that small tweaks make. Enjoy.

I use the 700 series which replace the CDMA NT. Both use the Nautilus tweeter (NT). I also own 600 and 800 series and these are a sweet spot. Easy to drive like 600 series but much more refined.

You do not need a massive amp but a good 100 wpc integrated is ideal in my experience. My 50 wpc Linn and Rega integrated were fine but at low volume, I found my 100 wpc McIntosh or modern Yamaha integrateds were a lot better. A big NAD works well too. A nice tube amp will be a good choice too as long as it is not one of those really small one. A 75 wpc Cary or McIntosh is a good choice.

These are very high quality and revealing speaker so they will reward care in your set up. I use Transaprent audio cable as the little network boxes were very good at suppressing line noise which the NT are reproducing. I use some level of isolation on all components in the chain, even the amps. Again these speaker will allow you to hear the differences that small tweaks make. Enjoy.

I use the 700 series which replace the CDMA NT. Both use the Nautilus tweeter (NT). I also own 600 and 800 series and these are a sweet spot. Easy to drive like 600 series but much more refined.

You do not need a massive amp but a good 100 wpc integrated is ideal in my experience. My 50 wpc Linn and Rega integrated were fine but at low volume, I found my 100 wpc McIntosh or modern Yamaha integrateds were a lot better. A big NAD works well too. A nice tube amp will be a good choice too as long as it is not one of those really small one. A 75 wpc Cary or McIntosh is a good choice.

These are very high quality and revealing speaker so they will reward care in your set up. I use Transaprent audio cable as the little network boxes were very good at suppressing line noise which the NT are reproducing. I use some level of isolation on all components in the chain, even the amps. Again these speaker will allow you to hear the differences that small tweaks make. Enjoy.

Tntate,
i found these measurements for the next rev of your speakers - B&W 705:
http://www.stereophile.com/content/bw-705-loudspeaker-measurements
could not find any such measurements for your CDM-1NT speakers but my guess (from my personal experience & seeing B&W's other speakers) is that the CDM-1NT & the 705 models measure about the same.
the impedance & phase plots are totally wild, IMO & this speaker will drive most amps crazy as it yo-yos from capacitative load (negative phase) to inductive load (positive phase). You see this happening in the 1KHz-3KHz region. As the amp deals with capacitive & inductive phase shifts, the impact is felt in the music as phase distortion which will appear as a brittleness or an unusual sharpness in the vocals - the 1KHz-3KHz is a sensitive region for the human ears.
Also, due to the wild phase shifts of this speaker, your amp will be wasting a lot of power into the reactive components (capacitor & inductor) of the x-over. The effect of this will be that your amp's instantaneous power will be reduced by the phase angle at that particular freq. For example, look at the 100Hz freq. The phase angle is -45 degrees. Let's say that you are cranking 10W into the speaker for your desired volume. Due to the -45 deg (capacitative) phase shift, the real power is only 7.07W & an equal amount of power is burnt up in the reactive component of the x-over. So, your amp will be working hard but only half the power makes it to the speaker drivers.
That's why B&W are traditionally very hard to drive & require big amps that are almost always high-current amps. Higher the current in the amp's output stage, the more current the amp has to piss away into the x-over reactive components and STILL have enough to create a large enough voltage signal in the speaker driver to create a sufficient pistonic action to create a sufficiently large SPL for your listening pleasure.
Zd542 has already given you some examples of how we can make a 100W amp - 50V*2Amps OR 25V*4Amps, etc. The higher the current the better for B&W and at the same time you will need higher wattage to ensure signal headroom for better (music) dynamics.
Driving a B&W speaker is generally an expensive option because finding a high(er) wattage amp with high current that sounds nice is more often than not puling from a very small pool of amplifiers. Yes, you can use many amps in the market but you will never realize the potential of your B&W & you will generally remain unsatisfied with a perpetual itch to upgrade.
Maybe more than you wanted to know but to tame the B&W beast it helps to know what you are doing..... ;-)