Define power hungry...B&W speakers

I'll throw in my experience. I used to have B&W CM4 driven by Rotel RB1080. I liked it a lot. Eventually I moved to the 804S, and those speakers started revealing the weaknesses in the Rotel amp. I auditioned some amps and liked McIntosh SS with B&Ws.

Eventually I auditioned in the same system the 804S with a McIntosh MC252 (250W solid state), and MC275 (75W tubed), and decided for the tubes. Goes to show how nominal Wattage means little, even from the same manufacturer if moving from SS to tubes!

Once at home I had a long time to try the Rotel vs Mc275. I was contemplating biamplifying with the Rotel on the bass. Funny enough, the MC275 had more weight and body than the Rotel in the bass. So again, Wattage means little. I went with what sounded better to me.

Having said this, it is generally accepted bigger 800-series need a lot of power to shine. But I don't think your speakers fall in that camp.

Thanks for your input Levinskih01 - good for you that you liked the (more expensive) MC275 over the Rotel 1080. :-)
Your comparison is not exactly fair but those were the 2 amps you had on-hand, I understand.
The RB1080 sold for $990 when it was new back in 2002 & it seems like a very capable amp - even had THX certification back then. But at $1000 selling price + made in China, this amp has to be considered a budget amp with serious compromises to make that $1000 selling price.
The MC275 was & is a superior built amp from all that I have heard, read & listened (at shows). It currently sells for $4500. It's commemorative edition sold for $3500 & even it's 1st edition of 1961 in today's prices would be a $3500 amp. So, it's no wonder that it sounded better than the RB1080.

All-the-same, all B&W speakers that i know of are voltage paradigm speakers (as opposed to power paradigm). So, they are most likely the best sounding with SS amps - that's been my experience so far be it floor standers or stand-mounts, friend's houses or shows. Not saying one cannot use tubes but choose one's tube amp carefully - not any tube amp will suffice.....

Lewinskih01, All,
please do not mis-read my post to mean that selling price is a direct measure of audio performance. it is not. In this case of the RB1080 & the MC275 it just so happens that the selling price does reflect the superior performance of one amp over the other.

Bombaywalla,

I think you misread my post. I was comparing the MC275 to the MC252, rated 250W per channel, solid state, by the same manufacturer, retailing at basically the same price from what I recall. From those two, in the same system, heard at the same time, with my same speakers, I opted for the MC275.

The reference to the RB1080 was used to point at the bass, where one usually reads comments saying tubes don't sound as good in that region. In this case the tubes sounded better even in the bass.

Obviously I was not surprised by the MC275 sounding better than the RB1080 - at the end of the day that is why I purchased it!

Not sure I agree with your comment about solid state amps being better for B&W. I know in my case it isn't, and I remember over at the Audiokarma McIntosh forum I used to visit long ago there was a technical guy from McIntosh who sweared by using MC275 as monoblocks to drive 803D.
And I remember listening to 802D driven by $30k huge VTL monoblocks that sounded outstanding. 802D are indeed power hungry and those VTL heaters could certainly output a lot of tube-Watts. But who would buy 30k amps to drive 802D?? Not me, even if I had the money.
Buying very powerful and outstanding solid state amps from McIntosh, Classe, Rowland, etc would be much cheaper, less bulky, and wouldn't generate as much heat...

My point being I don't buy B&W 800-series works better with solid state. They do need power, and power is more practical to get from SS than from tubes. That's all.

So, assuming my speakers line up with the 700 series, how many watts minimum and what current specs would you recommend? Where do I find those current specs on an amplifier or receiver?
Thanks again!