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setting azimuth on VPI turntables

I purchased a VPI Scoutmaster a few weeks ago, being unenthusiatic over the sound, I was considering selling up until last night.

I had been over cartridge setup for this table a number of times, getting overhang, alignment, azimuth, VTF, and VTA just right. Still, things were not sounding all that good.

I had previously purchased the Fremer DVD so I did know about setting up this table optimally. I surmised the rod method of setting azimuth, as instructed in the VPI manual, was not optimal and part of the culprit in non-involving sound.

I finally got around to purchasing a DMM with a low enough AC voltage scale the other day. After much trial and error I finally got a crosstalk differential of less than 1%, a miracle with this setup. Setting azimuth on this table is a real PITA, everytime I got azimuth within specs, VTF went out of balance.

Eventually I got it right, the payoff in sound was way big time! Center image is now 'locked in', way more solid and dimensional. Images are also now floating free of the physical speaker, spaciousness, air in spades, a much more organic sound.

Having heard some complain about this table's uninvolving nature and lack of musicality prompted me to post this thread. I suspect many have not had their table set up correctly, because I certainly heard what they were talking about prior to getting azimuth 'locked in'. VPI owners, it is absolutely necessary to set azimuth electronically, the rod method in not nearly good enough! Get a proper DMM or get someone knowledgable to set up your table, you just might be in for a big surprise!

Vinyl setup:
VPI Scoutmaster, non-signature, Valhalla wired arm wand in near future
Dynavector 20XL
Cayin Phono One
DIY wall shelf using 3" thick maple
Bright Star Big Rock, going to try Gingko 11 in near future
SDS and ring clamp coming soon
sns
viper_z
95 posts
 
Hmm...I tried the DMM method for the first time. I bought the $40.00 Analogue Productions Test LP. I first played the stereo mode 1kHz tone and turned my volume up so that the output voltage from my amp reads about 4V on both side.

Then I played the left 1kHz tone and measure the right output voltage, I got very unstable reading between 0.02 to 0.08V.

I then played the right 1kHz tone and measure the left output voltage, I got between 0.22 to 0.3V.

So now I turn the tonearm weight in one direction to try to get my left output voltage to fall below 0.1V. But the funny thing is, even when I turned all the way to the extreme position, the left still measure between 0.17 to 0.26V. There's no way I can get it to the same small reading as my right output.

So does this means my cartridge is faulty or what?
sns OP
653 posts
 
The only thing I can think is that the cartridge is at fault. If your output is equal on both channels, crosstalk measurements should be pretty equal as well. I would expect with cartridge manufacturing tolerance variance you will likely never get crosstalk to be perfectly equal between channels, but you should get much closer than you have. Have you tried turning the tonearm weight in the opposite direction, perhaps you're turning in wrong direction. Someone else has some ideas?
viper_z
95 posts
 
Sns, of course, I tried turning the other direction and the voltage increases instead of decreases.
sonofjim
557 posts
 
I've always set the azimuth up on my SSM by the rod/ear method with good subjective results. I'm considering double checking with a DMM based on what I've seen here and elsewhere. There appears to be a new option from Feikert in the form of software called Adjust + which looks like azimuth is set with an oscilloscope on your computer screen. I think this runs 400-500 dollars though and I've been trying to find input from someone who knows more about it or has used it. Is it worth the expense or can I get similar results using a DMM and Cardas test record?
stringreen's avatar
stringreen
5,112 posts
 
The DMM and Cardas gives excellent results...but so too does the rod method if done carefully. The DMM method is a bit of a pain to go through the hoops, but the results are very clear. As I have said in another post, if you reduce the distance between the record and the rod on both sides (I use the Cardas Myrtle blocks, and build it up even further with the same size washer for each of the 2 blocks - one on each end, under the rod ends), and if the rod is not bent, and if the stylus was manufacturer square to the cartridge body, the results are the same. As you can see there are a lot of "ifs", however, it can be done. I would save the 500 dollars for more meaningful projects
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