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Using long interconnects with your turntable?

I'm having some serious rumble issues with my turntable when I turn the volume up (Music Hall MMF-7 / Goldring Eroica high output moving coil cartridge). The rumble starts between 85 - 90 db.

I've tried everything from Mapleshade 4" block, to TTweights Isofeet, to a Ginko Cloud but nothing seems to help. The table sits on a Mapleshade Samson rack between my speakers. The speakers are roughly 4 feet to each side of the turntable.

I really don't think that the rumble is due to structural problems, I think it's acoustic in nature, because when I put my head directly over the table, I hear a bad bass node.

My two choices are to:

1) use a rumble filter (KAB?)
I'm not too keen on the idea of using a rumble filter, but I hear some positive remarks about this thing. Any thoughts on this?

2) move the turntable
In order for me to move the turntable, I need a 25 foot set of interconnects. I don't want to spend a ton of money, but I don't it to sound either bright, or rolled off in the top either (and I really don't want any noise or hum problems due to the length of the interconnects). I've read a lot of positive comments about the Kimber Hero. Any thoughts, suggestions and/or recommendations??

In advance, thanks for your input.
louisl
elizabeth
6,726 posts
 
If you have a separate phono section and move it with the TT I think you are OK with any decent 25' interconnect. If you cannot move the Phono preamp (or even the entire stereo setup less the amp, then you are in trouble. A 25 foot long wire from cart to phono is just hard to do. It will degrade the sound (remember the phono signal is EXTREMELY weak)
I would seriously suggest moving EVERYTHING away from the speakers except the amp (assuming you have a separate amp) and using the 25 foot wires from preamp to amp.
(I have twice had my stuff far away from the speakers with currently a 7 meter Hero between pre and amp and it IS better. The vibrations from the speakers affect the preamp and CD as well as the TT and cart when the stuff is really close to the speakers. AND you get the stuff out from between the speakers.. which everyone says is better for imaging.
louisl OP
140 posts
 
Thorman,
The ceiling in my room is vaulted, so the wall behind the rack is only 4 ft high. In addition, behind the rack on the floor are two power conditioners. One is for my pre and power amp (Running Springs Audio), the other (Bybee) is for my CD Player, with all the cables behind the rack, the only place in the room for the turntable is on the side wall. I measured from the preamp to where the turntable would be is roughly 25 feet.
louisl OP
140 posts
 
Elizabeth,
Now you're talking. That make's a lot of sense. Why didn't I think of that? I have a preamp (with the phono section built in), and a seperate power amp. I'm definetly going to consider your suggestion. Moving the rack (even though it will be a huge hassle because of the way my room is laid out) to the side wall should open the imaging, and, as a side benefit, give the room a new look. Great new thought, thanks.
By the way, how do you like your Hero interconnects?
mingles
775 posts
 
You might want to check out this idea:
best TTisolation tweak ever
elizabeth
6,726 posts
 
I just bought the Hero 7 meter balanced set about three weeks ago. At first they were not so great. But as time went on and I left everything on, playing quietly 24/7 they got better.
My whole system is new (all Bryston and Maggies) so I can only say I am satisfied with the Heros and my system, even though the speaker wires are currently still temporary junk "Low Voltage lighting wire". I have a hydraulic crimping pliers on the way (thanks to a recent post with link in cables over at the asylum) so I can make up my bi-cabled speakers wires from Kimber 8TC with some 16,000 lb pressure crimps that SHOULD make a good connection with WBT sleeves.
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I think if you move your stuff you will find a new clarity in you setup, when you keep out the heavy nearfield music vibrations away from the electronics
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