Nude Turntable Project

Which part interests you - the leveling or the thrust plate adjustment?

The thrust plate.

Thanks Aigenga..........I knew the looks would not be to everyone's taste....and initially scared me somewhat :-0
But now I think the covered 'guts' look stodgy in comparison.
As Ecir said above.......I think it looks "wicked" :-)

I really admire the way you have supported your TT-101 on the wall-hung shelf....and its interesting to read about your use of the central 4th spike?
I remembered well your 'damping' of the outer metal casing and following your advice, I bought 2 bungy straps on Ebay and wrapped them around the outer casing....without however hearing any differences?
It was your reported improvements in damping the outer casing which encouraged me to remove it completely :-)
And the improvements have indeed been audible....but how much is due to the removal of the casing or the better supporting steel cradle or the decoupling of the deck from the cradle support....I don't really know?

Halcro, I am happy for any (if any) role I played in inspiring your creativity. In our crazy hobby, everything matters and often it is impossible to figure out what does what to our precious sound.

Audpulse, Sorry but no pics available on this one. Here is my best info:
1. first why do you want to adjust the thrust plate - is there a problem with how the platter turns? If not then sit back and think about it some more.

2. if you want to go forward keep this in mind: the pressure on the plate is not random, not at all - if you get it wrong the platter either won't turn or it might make it harder for the table to get a grip and get spinning. Which I think might have happened to me.

3. The TT101 has a center screw that is easily visible and accessible from underneath once you remove the bottom can. To do this it is critical that you first remove the platter, then turn the tt upside down onto a bowl that is broad enough to sit stably as you work.

4. The center screw provides the pressure on the thrust plate. It is screwed in to an exact spot - don't forget that. It is also sealed with Loctite or some such sealer which you will need to scrape away and replace when you replace the screw.

5. Once you take out the screw you should replace the oil in the well - about 1/2 ounce will do. I suggest synthetic motor oil. You can wipe it out with a clean cloth. Careful in that there is a loose ball bearing sitting there and you don't want to lose that.

6. Reassembly is just that, but don't forget to seal that screw or your oil will leak out.

I hope that is useful to you. Questions?

I was thinking last night……because Aigenga’s TT-101 is nude and mounted on a wall-hung shelf like mine……I know exactly what it sounds like?
Same with Banquo’s ‘nuded’ Victor.
But I also know what most Raven AC turntables sound like (assuming they are not plagued by uncontrolled Structure-Borne feedback) and Rega Planar 3 turntables and Linns and Caliburns.
And if I was familiar with the big Micro Seiki 5000 and 8000 models…..I would probably know their ‘sound’ as well?

But I have no clue how a ‘re-plinthed’ SP-10 Mk2 or Mk3 sounds or how a re-plinthed Lenco, Garrard, Thorens et al would sound and I can’t imagine how anyone else can?
If every plinth can sound differently depending on material, sizing, construction, damping, resonance-draining and footers….how does any example sound like another?
And if they all sound slightly differently…..who decides which is more accurate and how is this decided?

From a purely objective and somewhat logical viewpoint…..if a ‘self-contained’ turntable like a direct-drive model (and to some extent Idlers) can perform their function without being encapsulated by a plinth…..why is it not reasonable to conclude that any changes to the sound resulting from the addition of a plinth is a ‘colouration’…an ‘addition’ or a ‘deduction’ or a ‘corruption’?

How do the ‘plinth’ advocates reconcile the fact that no two examples can possibly sound exactly the same?