A Copernican View of the Turntable System

Dear Chris, It will change for sure, but you need an intermediate level of different material in order to break up the resonances. If I was in your position, I would start with a 7mm Brass top plate for armboard, and Steel for the discs under the spikes. By this way you have the Goldmund's list & sequence of metals. I'm not supporting their option, but you may want to try something that is so much praised by them.
Kind Regards

Dear Nandric,
Thank you, that's very flattering but I can only 'design' the armpod.....I can't make it.
For that I need a good foundry to make the mould and cast the bronze after which I need a good machine shop to make the aluminium top plates and to drill and tap all the holes so that a good automotive paint shop can finish the job with 2 pack polyurethane.
Here in Australia we are lucky that there are many places which will readily do small quantities or 'one-off' jobs like this.
I'm sure in Holland you could also find places?.......look how Thuchan was able to have his new speakers made so professionally?
Of course.......price may be a factor and that's why Chris and Lew are looking at commercially available billets of brass and stainless steel which may be available in the States.
Solid billets of the sizes I designed are simply not readily available in Australia.
There are many people who can 'draw' like Picasso...........there are very few who have the IDEA of what to draw?
That's the difference between a 'craftsman' and an 'artist' :-)

Regards my friend

Dear Geoch - thank u for your recommendations. I use the discs under the spikes. I have however been experimenting with different materials under them. The most recent pics in the site link show the discs along with the removal of the armboard top plate.

Will consider the 7 mm brass top plate but have a question.

I like the design of the ET post mount which has one bolt holding it with 3 leveling threaded spikes surrounding it. It can be seen in the link here.

http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/view_userimages.php?user_id=5181&image_id=41907

How do you or others here that have looked into isolation between metallic materials feel, on whether the top brass plate you recommend is attached firmly against the armboard below (easy to do) or if it should ride on air like the ET post mount. More difficult but still easily doable. I would just need to find a place that sells the threaded spike couplers to use with it.

Then the top two levels of the armboard would be riding on air.

Henry - it appears your arm pod top plates are screwed directly to the armpod ? Did you consider this ? What if that top plate was riding on air like the pic in my link ? Would it increase resonances or provide more isolation?

Any thoughts on this ?

Cheers Chris

Dear Inshore - look forward to seeing a picture of the armpod. Just curious as you mention humidity - Is panzerholz affected by humidity as other woods - maple, oak and birch?

Cheers Chris

Dear Halcro, I know that you are a very 'smart cookie' but
clairvoyant? Well as you presupposed I was able to find a
craftsman with an CNC lathe in Holland and I really enjoy
to look how he works with this 'monster'. However Thuchan
is a different 'cookie'. He is an entrepeneur with a clear
thought of what he wants and has the capability to organize all the needed work. Dertonarm is btw a close friend and they are at the moment adjusting the Bavarian voice (aka speakers). So obviously he was also in the position to find all the needed professionals in Germany for the job. So you made a good quess. I am in particular interested in this 'trumpet' in front of the TAD 2002 driver but even Daniel was not able to explain to me what
the 'clue' is . My shortcoming of course.

Regards,