Turntable speed accuracy


There is another thread (about the NVS table) which has a subordinate discussion about turntable speed accuracy and different methods of checking. Some suggest using the Timeline laser, others use a strobe disk.

I assume everyone agrees that speed accuracy is of utmost importance. What is the best way to verify results? What is the most speed-accurate drive method? And is speed accuracy really the most important consideration for proper turntable design or are there some compromises with certain drive types that make others still viable?
peterayer
Dear Lewm,
ok didn't jump so far. Maybe I have a different / not typical understanding of footprint or better let's say character or personality of a turntable.
I know some audio gurus carry the philosophy of neutrality around the world, which should mean, the more neutral a turntable is the better for the reproduction. In their sense it is absolutely necessary that a turntable should not become musical - but neutral. A neutral turnable cannot be musical, warm or dynamical, or lively. It is and has to be just neutral. Everything else is coloration or distortion. Am I right? Okay. In this understanding I am happy to live with coloration & distortion - and I don't need to jump.

best @ fun only
"Mosin, as inertia is directly related to mass and friction.....are you saying that heavy platters have inherently greater inertia than light ones?"

What I'm saying is that sheer mass is less effective when it is capriciously used than when it is purposefully assigned to achieve an optimum moment of inertia. As far as mass on a platter, I feel that its benefit as an isolation component is another key reason to use it.

Of course, there are more ways than one to skin the proverbial cat, so lighter platters may also work with some designs. I work solely in the arena of idler drives, so that is where I spend my time looking at such things. Recipes vary, but the performance depends on the entity as a whole, and not just a single part because every part is critical to the outcome. Any shortcut is a compromise. At least, that's what I have come to believe.
I am with you in this dilemma, which is why I hate the word "neutral" when used to describe an audio product. It can have any meaning that the user wishes it to have. One meaningful way to use it would be to say that "I have heard this or that LP many times in my own system using a wide variety of turntables, tonearms, and cartridges, and I find that this turntable/tonearm/cartridge seems to add less (or more) to the basic sound on this LP than does that turntable/tonearm/cartridge". Or something like that.
Excellent video production Henry ! Your accent doesn't come through in the posts here. :^)

My American and UK co-workers tell me Canadians have strong accents too but I don't believe them - eh ?

I think this Utube stuff opens opportunities here for everyone and the gear.

Would love to see more of you out there with your wonderful gear.

Thuchan - how about a video demonstrating your favourite audio toy – you could speak Japanese too.

Wonder what Raul sounds like?

How about a 3 minute utube video Raul demonstrating your tonearm features to us ?

Technology awaits. All in fun

Frogman - I agree with you.
Tony – great info

Cheers Chris
Tony, I don't quite see your "one revolution" hypothesis. The platter once in play never comes to a complete halt. I think the point is that the motor needs to have "enough" torque to keep speed stable. And the definition of "enough torque" is related to inertial mass of the platter and servo design. In bd turntables, the belt/thread/tape is an added factor in the equation. In idlers it's the idler drive system.