Highest component/cable ratio?


I was just thinking about the fact that the cost of cables in my system is now a very small percentage of the total value. I have found expensive cables to offer no significant advantage in numerous tests, and am still happy with both Anti-Cables, Clear Day stuff, and White Zombie.

But these budget cables do not reside in a budget system. It currently consists of an Acoustic Solid TT, Shindo Monbrison pre, Yamamoto or Art Audio amps, and Lamhorn speakers.

I do run VH Audio Flavor 4 PCs, the most expensive cables in the system, but need only two of them.

Who else out there is using the budget cabling in a relatively high-end system? The current audiophile mentality tells me these cables should be holding the system back but they do not. Unless I can't hear.
paulfolbrecht
I am also running semi low rate cables with my krell system. I went thru the mega-buck cables and for my taste the Monster IR ref. II interconnects & M2.4s bi-wires work. Bought the hi ends here on Agon & ended up selling and back to the Monster version.
System; Krell KCT, Krell FPB300cx; Krell KPE Ref phono, Infinity Rennaisance 90 speakers.
I do swap out the CAST to an XLR Cardas Quadlink once in a while just to mix it up. Hey it works and work extremely well. -John
Your ear's must rule, not the price tag. Is that not the first rule of this hobby?

I have and use interconnect cables that are rather inexpensive, some are 25 year old Discwasher and some are newer Sonic Link. The Disc cables have separate ground wires and were purchased directly from Disc. Most of them did not cost more then $15 a pair. They still sound great. I have had many different ss and tube units in my system over the years. The most expensive unit I owned was a $15K pre amp. Different cables did not improve its sound.

Over the years I have had dealers loan me many different cables (interconnects and speaker) to try, never measured up to the Discwasher and 12 gauge copper. Some of the loaner cables were in the $1K meter class, most were well broken in. Most dealers do not loan any more, and I think you know why.

I advise anybody who is thinking of getting more expensive cables then they have not to do so unless the dealer gives you a loan pair to first try. Otherwise you are just chasing air.
Every time I try to replace my cabling with less expensive alternatives, I hear the benefits of the more expensive stuff, and up for sale goes the "bargain" cabling. I tried Speltz jumper cables once, and I did not care for them at all. I much preferred a different inexpensive jumper set, but I cannot remember the builder. I still use them on the Zero boxes.

I do like those Zero boxes, though Paul. :)

I guess I'm just HYP-MO-TYZED by the voodoo cable purveyors. Wish I could break the spell.
The one part of my system that I cannot change is the speaker cable. My speaker cable runs through the concrete floor from one side of my living room to the other. When my house was built, I had wanted the electrician to install conduit so that the speaker cables could be exchanged, but he did not. Instead, he used Radioshack 12G speakerwire trapping it in the concrete. On the positive side, this prevents me from expensive experimenting since the the current run is 40-45' in length.
Hey Paul, I want to hear the difference, but just plain can't. I'm an early adopter of the Volex $8 power cables and I've been using VH Audio Pulsar ICs for over 5 years now. Paul Speltz Anti Cable speaker wires are as good as any I've tried. So, I'm with you, luck I suppose to have this stuff work for me. I'm always surfing looking for that next best thing. I'd love to find a cable (any) that gets me there, but for now I'm content.