What wire config for tri-wired speakers?

Jacob,

I'm not sure I really understand your comment. I've been lead to believe that it's necessary to use the same length of wire to all parts of the speaker to insure proper timing and capacitance. I would expect wire of different sizes, gauges and types to produce unexpected distortion.

Am I off?

Also, are you suggesting that I dump the fancy cables in lieu of home made?

Bill

You are right Bill, in theory. In a perfect world having everything the same would be ideal, however, we all know nothing is ideal. I highly doubt that any one would be able to hear a difference of a parallel run of 10ga car audio power cable and dreamdancers on the bass. I don't mean to make it seem that black and white, but the human ear simply can't hear the subtle details in the bass region like it can in the midrange and treble. There are many reasons for this, though there is really no need to get into them :)

Resistance isn't much of an issue, in particular with the cables you use! We can do a little testing if you want, I can bring my 6ft valkyre's down- if they will work- and we can see what the deal is. I think you'll be surprised at what you hear, or don't hear. You have to remember that only part of your speaker is active and that part is fully adjustable to compensate for timing, phase and volume. The bass is getting a speaker level input then has to convert it to digital and amplify the signal then convert it back to analog and get it to the speaker(s), and your not having timing/PRaT issues now! I can't see how changing the cables would effect this even in an imperfect world. It sure would be interesting to try different cables I am sure you will get an improvement, but I don't think its worth taking a risk if you can't borrow/demo the cables first.

You know now that I think about it Phil Collins may just sound a little better with dreamdancers on the bass :)

No-I'm suggesting you use separate runs of Jena to the midrange and treble. And that you use a heavy gauge copper cable that costs, say, $400-500 for the bass. At 200hz or below, you just need to pump that current into the bass.

I'll try it.

Bill E.

Basically, what I'm saying is: don't waste your money on expensive bass cables. But for goodness sake, get rid of those jumpers, and use separate runs for the rest of the speaker. It should open up considerably and provide a smoother, fuller sound.