RB-300:help ;I think I'm wacked


This thing cracks me up. I just replaced my old immedia rpm arm with my rb-300. Now, I know it sounds good, I knew that. But yet it still blows my mind, enough to make me laugh uncontrollably, like when I eat chicken from the barbaque and it taste better than I can comprehend.
And here is more to laugh at. Not only are these things all over used, but the most expensive rega arm is 1000 bucks. ONLY 1000 bucks. Brand new retail.
O.K., forget about price. I would like your help in taking this thing to the limit. I have already done the following; rewired with a single run of cardas from cartridge directly to M. Yee phono parked right along side of table, added weight to the counter weight, not much, (about 50 percent of origional small weight), and backed off the spring pressure as to not have it touch or bind (can't have that, right?), and stuffed the arm with foam, and replaced the silicone insert at the headshell, you know the one, the one those origional cheesy wires come out of.
Does anyone know of any more succesful, or popular mods that have ever been done? Any different ones? Any experience with different wire? Nothing is too rediculas for me. I wonder if this arm might eventually become close to the best possible. Sound absurd?
basement
Regarding the fingerwand.. I have found that dampening it does help for those that are afraid to grind the sucker down... Try some small heat shrink tube with a little left over... it is a safe way to dampen it...
It worked nicely for me... I just couldnt wizz the thing off... Sorry.
Joe
The reason that you don't need to do the mods on the RB 600,900,1000 is that you can get the OL Silver Tonearm for $750, that will be a way better arm than any of the Regas, before or after modification. Why buy an arm that costs more and won't do as well? The OL arms use Rega bases, and fit right into the Rega arm hole. The 250 and 300 are cheap enough to be good candidates for mods, and not cost too much after you're done. Anything over $750 is a wrong move. If you plan to spend that much, buy the OL Silver Tonearm. It has the better bearings, a widened bearing yoke distance, and a totally different armtube/headshell. This is better than any modded Rega.

You have to be careful when doing mods, that you don't spend more than the amount where you can do better by buying something else.
Actually, the new RB1000 arm is $1595.00, well over a thousand bucks. Anyone out there heard it yet?
No, I haven't listened to the new 1000 yet. I expect it would be a very good arm. From what I can see of it on the website, it appears to continue the Rega practice of refinements on the RB300 theme. It still has the spring VTF adjuster. All of these arms, including the OL arms still need the Expressimo Heavyweight. I was shocked at the improvement I got on my OL Silver with the Heavyweight. IMO, this mod is not optional. It should be standard on all these arms.
I am beginning to see. I checked out some webs. It would appear that the reason the rb-250 would end up being better after mods is because it is coupled to the base on both ends of the vertical bearings, where the arms built with the springs are coupled on on side only; the are not coupled where the spring is attached(except by the spring itself).
Furthermore, it seems the reason rb-300's and above are better "out of the box" is they use better materiels on the end stubs, where the rb-250 uses plastic.
What I can see is the importance of the end stub & counterweight, as this is a place where resonences can reflect and the mass is significant as to compete or interfere with the mechanical grounding of the arm.
What I don't see is how couplng the counterweight rigidly with a set screw would make a improvement, or coupling the end stub solidly, for that matter. I understand that the origin mod is supposed to be solid with "less" coupling. The expressimo end stub appears to be the same as a stock one, with the exception of having a allen screw to torque it down, I can't see how the origin is attatched.
Question; is there something about a rigid mount to the end stub/counterweight assembly that makes a tonearm perform better? (as opposed, for instance, to coupled with some sort of damping?)
Question 2; is there something to the "torque" involved that makes the end stub behave differently, as to perhaps be better than further or appropriate "decoupling" of the whole assembly?
Has anyone done any exploring with the attatchment of the counterweight, either before or after the mods? Or with other tonearms?
I am sure there is something to this that can help us build a better tonearm. I am especailly curious as it appears that there is knowledge in this area that I may have been previously unaware existed.