I use the Zerostat to what seems to be good effect. I live where dryness and static are a problem and removing an LP from the jacket will sometimes make the hairs on my arm jump to immediate attention. I find that using the Zerostat eliminates this effectively. The directions claim the introduction of positive ions when sqeezing the trigger and negative (cancelling) ions on the release of the trigger. Beyond me to interpret the technicalities, but it works for me. Squeeze and release have to be done S L O W L Y , though.
Sean, I called the device I use for protecting the labels a Groovemaster because this is what the guy I bought it from MANY years ago told me it was called. I always figured it was made my Stanton (it doesn't have a label) but have been unable to find any info that such a product is still available. It is basically two pieces of round wood with a knob on each end. One piece has a threaded stud while the other has an accepting nut countersunk into the wood. Each piece has an o-ring partially set into a round groove and are glued in place. One simply slides the stud through the spindle hole and tightens down the two pieces to effect a seal between the o-rings and the runout groove area. A friend of mine made his using mine as a pattern. In his case, he used two blocks of clear acrylic. Tapped one piece to hold the threaded stud and used a router and drill to drill a hole passing through the other and a countersink hole where he used epoxy to hold the accepting nut in place. Then he carefully used glee to affix his o-rings. He claims he has had to re-glue the o-rings a time or two but the device works well for him. Hope that helps.
Sean, I called the device I use for protecting the labels a Groovemaster because this is what the guy I bought it from MANY years ago told me it was called. I always figured it was made my Stanton (it doesn't have a label) but have been unable to find any info that such a product is still available. It is basically two pieces of round wood with a knob on each end. One piece has a threaded stud while the other has an accepting nut countersunk into the wood. Each piece has an o-ring partially set into a round groove and are glued in place. One simply slides the stud through the spindle hole and tightens down the two pieces to effect a seal between the o-rings and the runout groove area. A friend of mine made his using mine as a pattern. In his case, he used two blocks of clear acrylic. Tapped one piece to hold the threaded stud and used a router and drill to drill a hole passing through the other and a countersink hole where he used epoxy to hold the accepting nut in place. Then he carefully used glee to affix his o-rings. He claims he has had to re-glue the o-rings a time or two but the device works well for him. Hope that helps.