What Lacquers have been used on cables with succes

Larry, you might also want to try lacquer thinner during the final stage of your wire prep. It's blend of solvents will dissolve most organic contaminants(polymers, oil, fingerprints, etc.) in addition to providing a wet agent to remove any dust should you need to(if you went with steel wool or another abrasive).

You could buy Tara labs air or the 2 series cables.Air or vacume your choice, love the sound of these cables in my systems.

Trelja:I was thinking of putting Heatshrink at the ends before running lacquer over them so I would not hav to introduce any need for the use of a thinner.
The cable I tried the other night I just used a run of TexFlex Teflon tubing material and left the return run bare in order to hve seperation.Then I ran it through Plastic tubing and terminated the ends.

That worked good. I will be trying alll kinds of other things that peole have suggested. The most expensive part are the terminators I have bought.

I will be ordering more wire of different gauges soon also.

I was surprised at the sound I got for the IC's and speaker cable thus far.

Thx.

JohnK:I am doing this for several reasons. First is to see what might work best in my system and secondly to come up with cost effective solutions in order not to pay the extravagant prices commercial wires cost.

I have plenty of expensive wires I can use. I am finding that the different designs I am using aer beating some of my reference wires in several area's like soundstaging and Decay of instraments.

BTW I am using Tara Labs TFA on my bass Drivers at present which is the best I have for Bi-Wiring to those drivers.

Abe:

If you are just looking to seal the ends and the solder joints pick up a small bottle of Q-Dope @ an electronics shop. A 3" tall bottle should be under $3. It's a liquid "poly" plastic, I think (can't find my bottle to confirm type).

I use electrician's alcohol right now to clean wire and joints (previously used Kontak which was better, but I spilled the remainder of my bottle and have yet to replace it).

There is a also a "non-residue" spray contact cleaner by MG Chemicals of Canada that works well (approx. $4.50/can).

I use burnishing cloth (the purple stuff) myself as I don't like the mess that steel wool leaves behind. The main thing it to not touch the metal parts, with your fingers, after they have been cleaned and to also clean the solder joints prior to sealing them. If using magnet or insulated wire I run the Q-Dope up and over where the insulation meets the bare wire. JR or Jon Curl (one of those guys) recommended Q-Dope over @ AA.