OK guys, I see this has taken off a little since I last checked in.
David, since I've done both wood and acrylic, I assure you it is true: Acrylic costs more. And it does not have the forgiving properties of wood. I like your wood list, some would look very interesting. Also, there is basically no Teres design directions. Just a set of dimensions that I chose not to follow too closely. I went bigger all the way around, and figured out my own shot loading pattern. Description follows....
Prpixel, a man after my own heart. I try and keep every little piece and scrap of exotic wood I can find. Veneer too. How else can you be with what wood costs these days? I agree that the pieces come in handy for inlays, accents, etc.... Luckily I don't have to worry about storage, because my shop has about 4000 square feet. Then my buddy Paul's shop has another 4000, and that's where the serious wood is. I may be the only person I know who has made cauls out of cocbolo. I had a cutoff from my plinth that worked perfect! You may be interested in my wood guy. Check out his site:
East Wake HardwoodsRodger has a great selection and is a hell of a guy. Last time I was there I spent 2 hours perusing. He has some estate cocbolo form the 1920's in 8/4 that is to die for. That's what I used in mine. Almost all of his wood (99%) is priced per board foot. I collect wood too.
Jim, when I did my plinth, I used several pices of cocobolo and one piece of ebony. I used 2 pieces of cocobolo for the bottom, about 2" thick glued on the indside edge. For the top there are 4 pieces (3cocobolo, 1 macassar ebony). The two outside pieces are solid cocobolo about 2" thick, glued to the two center pieces. THe ebony is about 3/4" with another piece of cocobolo under it. They were glued up first, the the outside pieces glued to them. Then the top and bottom were glued together. DO NOT USE SCREWS! EVER! The grains run in different directions on these two pieces to give it some added stability. Then came the veneer, which is a whole other story. The shot pattern is kinda, but not really random. I drilled 2" holes 2 1/2" deep, put EXACTLY The same amount of shot in each hole, and plugged then with teak. If you look at the pics, the teak has some really nice grain that is the same on all of the plugs. That little detail took two hours alone.
So, there you have it. Now, on to some materials issues. Jim, ebony & rosewood would both work and look very well. But remember, macassar ebony runs about $50 a board foot. This can make mistakes costly. Teres makes plinths out of rose wood, and I used Madura, a brazilian rosewood for my base. It is similar to cocobolo, but not quite as dense. I would have to say there is no "best" material. There is a lot of good, some great, but too many possibities for a best. Lead helps. I don't think anyone will disagree with that. Use #9. I got mine on the net.
Also, I have found that almost any wood will tear if you are not careful. Macassar ebony is exteremely hard, but tears very easily. I've worked several woods that I swore I'd never touch again. When it happens, I usually just put down the tools, go have a smoke, and give it a few minutes. If I can do this before I throw the piece across the shop, I can usually figure out what I was doing wrong, and fix it. BTW, with acrylic, no such luck. I won't admit to being a master of solid surface material, but I have done a shitload of countertops and sinks. Since my brand, Staron, is 100% acrylic I thought it would lend itself well to TT's. Right now, I need to overcome some issues that do not arise doing countertops. But it looks very promising so far.
On cones, I and others here still think Audiopoints are the way to go. I have them under my plinth and under the base. No matter how you build the plinth, these are very important for a non-suspende table. All you have to do is try the cone of your choice and you will definitely see what I mean!
Buscis2, if your tool of choice is a checkbook, email me!
And I'll say it again: The only affiliations I have are with me.
