Has anyone upgraded power cord connectors?

David d, I make my living primarily on TG power cords.....A DIY version of the TG cords would be hard to make as the wire and connectors are either modified significantly or built to my specs....The Belden 19364 recipe I published some time ago will compete with most of the aftermarket cords out there and lends itself to DIY a bit better....Now copper connectors sure would be soft and don't think they would be very useful as they would have very little spring action....They would deform almost immediately.....

Rcrump,

Just found the Belden 19364. It's clear how it's to be done. Tell me: did you, and how, used the drain wire?

Bye!
David.

The last couple of houses I have lived in are only grounded where there is running water; kitchen, laundry and bathrooms, but I would attach the drain wire to the wall plug end only....

Bob, Since 19364 is just plain old unshielded multistrand 14AWG in cheap PVC, why not just use the thinner-PVC 19354, and save 25%? Or use the double-shielded Teflon-insulated 12AWG 83802 for just $2/ft? Very clearly a superior cable for audio use. I can understand using the 19354/64 series for long cheap extension cords for HT, etc., but for better-sounding audio PCs I would expect that DIY'ers would prefer prefer an all-Teflon shielded 12AWG cable at only $10 more per PC.
More interestingly, I do agree that using good duplexes is important, but as long as minimum criteria of large-mass, triple-wipe contacts and strong screw-clamps, why would there be any difference among those that share these necessary, and perhaps sufficient criteria? I've torn apart Pass & Seymour, Cooper, and Hubbell 20 amp 5352, 5362 and 8300 dupes, and they're remarkably identical. Do you think the all-brass backstrap of the "62" and 8300 is important?
I wouldn't think so, and like the 5352s for value and VERY tight contact in all three of these manufacturers. The only one that seems to fall short is the Leviton, so far.
Thanks for your help.

Ernie: I beg to differ with you on the receptacles being "remarkably identical". There are pretty substantial "build quality" differences between, say, the Arrow Hart (Cooper), Hubbell and Pass and Seymour and what I would say are major differences in the blade configuration of these receptacles. This difference in blade configuration or contacts, along with possibly the materials the contacts are made of (although Bob says the P&S and Hubbell both use the same 688 Olin brass and I have no reason to disbelieve him) probably contribute most to the difference in sound quality between the various receptacles.