Teres Owners - Please help

Hello Ecyclopediabsh, hi Patrick!
Whichever Teres model you(or your shmbo) decides to purchase, any of them will only perform as well as the support allows it. First and foremost make it rigid and non-resonant. You might benefit from mass loading the base/rack, but this depends upon the floor the whole assembly is sitting on.
A wall mounted rack is usually an excellent way to avoid the "swaying" phenomenon described by outlier, but if your wall is made of drywall you might open another can of worms(find at least one supporting beam). Then it is always possible to put an additional isolation device between the wall-mounted rack and the base of the table.
One last thing to consider when going for a wall rack. You will be stuck with the location. If there is a room node right at that spot, then moving a conventional rack by a foot or so often cures the (feedback/bass)problem. Moving the wall-mounted rack, well...
Buy/build the best support you can get, a 255/65 with a Moerch DP6 on a stable rack will outperform the same table with a Schröder No.2 on a shaky platform.

Cheers,

Frank Schröder

I owned the 265 and now own the 320. While I believe that the TT is the most important part of the analog chain, in your case I would go with the 265 and the Schroder rather than the 320 and the Rega.
I sold my 265 to a friend that has it on top of a wood cabinet similar to what you describe. If you lightly tap on it you can hear the problems with this type of setup but, it really isn't that big of a deal. You can work something out later. Meanwhile, just don't tap on it while your listening to music :).

I can't comment on the Teres tables, but I can tell you that I have one of the Synergy S40 racks in my HT system. I would not site a TT on one of these, at least not long term. These racks move alot, I mean alot! Even with everything tightened down all. As Lugnut said, I wouldn't pass on the table because of this stand but you would want to do something more stable even for a suspended table.

Hi Encyclopediabsh,

I own a Teres 265 sitting on a Salamander Triple 30. Both purchased for exactly the same reasons as you. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

All the sentiments expressed above are true. The Salamander is a poor audio performer. As Agaffer said, if I tap anywhere on it while playing a record the thump is clearly audible. In fact, I can easily hear the hinges through the speakers when I open/close a door. So I don't thump on it and I leave the doors shut!

Is this setup ideal? Hardly. The Salamander is unquestionably the weakest link in our system. Does it still make stupendous music. You bet. (Lugnut and Frank: to give you some perspective, despite the Salamander our system as a whole is tighter and *very* slightly more resolving than what we heard in Miami, and nearly as macro-dynamic. We just acquired the same power amp you heard there. It is a wonder.)

Our Salamander also sits on a rather shaky suspended wood floor, which doesn't help of course. To isolate it somewhat from floor-borne vibrations there's a heavy-duty sorbathane hemisphere under each of the Salamander's eight feet. Certainly not what I'd like to have, but it does seem to help. FWIW, the TT does not audibly mistrack unless I literally jump up and down right next to it.

Would I prefer a concrete floor and a solid, massive stand? Of course. I know I'd get stronger dynamics and a lower noise floor. Neither that nor a wall mount is an option, so we get by.

Issue #1
Many of the advantages of the 320 vs. the 265 are independent of the support. Its greater mass provides a superior resonance sink. It has a better, quieter motor and a more massive and stable platter. While I certainly agree a better stand would be beneficial, I wouldn't let the Salamander influence the choice between these two particular TT's. OTOH...

Issue #2
A 265/Morch DP6 will walk all over a 320/Expressimo Rega. I wouldn't put a modded Rega on any Teres except a 150 or maybe a 245. The 160, 255 and above all deserve a better arm. So if all-wood is mandatory I think a 265 + DP6 makes great sense.

However, you should follow ASAP with a good pair of stepup trannies and a LOMC. HOMC's and MM's simply don't cut it at this level. A good LOMC and trannies will set you back another $3K or more, but a 265 and DP6 are certainly good enough to take advantage of them.

If you can sell your spouse on the 255 then I'd go for that plus a DP6. This would leave more money available to put toward a better cartridge.

When attempting use of a wall mount rack, be careful before drilling holes and positioning other associated equipment (regardless of table). As Schroder mentions, room nodes can be an issue - a serious issue. I built a wall rack using 1000lb rated Stanley brackets and a 3" rock maple base. I positioned where I THOUGHT I'd be okay and attached straight into wall the studs using SIX 3" lag bolts. The floor was a poured concrete slab. As one increased gain, the air borne resonances caused a terrible rumbling mess. Touching the wall near the supports - rock solid, not so much as a trace of vibration. Further out on the base - different story. Moral? The rack can be mounted like a pillar and while you can eliminate floor vibrations and all but eliminate wall vibrations, those air borne forces are much greater than one would think. A two foot repositioning solved the issue entirely, but the six holes required filling and repainting in the process.