Expensive interconnects


I recently had an interesting experience regarding interconnects. My system consists of a Sony SCD 777 ES, Tandberg 3018A preamp, two Tandberg 3009A monoblocks( 180 watts each) and a Rega P25 with Micro Benz Ace moving coil cartridge. I run all the equipment through a couple of Richard Gray conditioners (400S MK 2's) I have Nordost Red Dawn interconnects between the preamp and the amps, and also between the speakers(Boston Acoustic's A200's) and the amps. However when I tried the Red Dawn interconnects between the Sony SCD 777 ES I did not like the results as much as I did with the Kimber Hero interconnects between the Sony and the preamp. I really like the Sony SCD 777 ES and the sound for me in both cd and sacd is fantastic once the machine is broken in. I figure the Kimber Hero's give the sound more body and compliment the sound of the Sony more than the Nordost cable. It could be that the ultra detailed Nordost combined with the ultra transparent detailed Sony are just too much. The lesson to be learned is to strive for synergy, and that does not come from just spending more on various equipment. It comes from putting together the right components, including interconnects. The Kimber Hero's are indeed giant killer's.

Cheers.
nocaster
As always, opinions will be all over the map. I happen to have had exactly the same experience as Bombaywalla with the Heros - bloated, slow, fuzzy - like stuffing cotton in your ears. I also had the same experience with Red Dawn - a little thin, but not waif thin. Moving up to the SPM reference is a BIG change in performance and body over the Red Dawn - in my opinion, that's where Nordost gets interesting... below, the products have some thinness that in some systems will be too noticeable. Then again, I replaced my SPM refs with Analysis Plus Crystal ovals for much less money, and get most of the same performance - just a little less extension high and low, but better pace and musicality.

Personally, I didn't find a Kimber Kable I liked until I hit the Select line (1010, 1011 - copper, and the cheapest of that line). I found their "lower end" or "heritage" series interconnects a rag-tag bunch.

Try a Signal Cable Analog 2 before you decide the Hero is the next David. You might find the Signal Cable betters the Hero, and for half the price. Then again, you may not!

I also pursue the "synergy" approach. Sometimes a component's coloration will make for a more pleasing sound. Bombaywalla leans toward neutrality and non-coloration, which is also valid - indeed, as I have found, that is often where I wind up most satisfied after trying to "steer" my system with particular components. But I will say, it's just as hard to try to achieve neutrality, because the flaws are evident in every component, and hardly anything that claims neutrality and non-coloration really is. Everything has a particular sound, just some are more noticeable than others.

In a way, I think shooting for neutrality is the same process as "steering for synergy" by using more colored components. Both are a merry-go-round. It's just how long you have to stay on it before you're satisfied, or dizzy - that differs for everyone, depending on your gear, your preferences, your luck, and how good your research is (ie. try to think out purchases rather than shotgunning.)
One thing if you go to a local bar and order a drink and another thing if you go to Club 54 in NY and order the same drink.
The same drink will certainly taste same but the price will be different.
Everyone chooses it's own stop where to have a drink.

One would like to have a bunch of electronic extras inside ones car and preferably a gold watch on the dashboard another will be OK with basic standard package in the same vehicle.
The constant value is the distance between A and B for each of these vehicles.
MWilson, I agree with you that most components that tout neutrality aren't. However, it has been my experience that the closer you get to neutral for the individual components, the easier it is to hit it systemwise, by using cables that are slightly + or - of neutral. Gross colorations need gross compensation, which is harder to achieve.
The drink, though the same, may taste quite different, depending where you drink it, and in what you drink it. Go figure....
I know the ICs I use (Harmonix Golden Performance) were a significant step up from my Cardas GR ICs, which were, at the time, a significant step up from my Lat Intertnational. The Harmonix, though pricey, (bought new-very hard, next to impossible to find used) are quite amazing. They are tuned, gorgeous, state of the art in construction and sonicaly what I've been looking for in an IC. The Harmonix GP is a GIANT... peace, warren