Please explain amplifier output impedance

* For those that can't do the math, an output impedance of .2 ohm would produce a damping factor of 40 as referenced to an 8 ohm speaker. This would be an acceptable starting point for someone trying to drive a larger woofer with a decent sized motor structure. Smaller diameter woofers with smaller motors and / or limited excursion might get away with a slightly lower DF ( damping factor ) without any really noticeable problems.

Much earlier in this thread I suggested 80 as an "ideal" damping factor or 0.1 Ohm output impedance as a good number to seek for a nominal 8 Ohm speaker load (not too much negative feedback and not too lacking in linearity/control when coupled with a speaker).

I can also live with Sean's very close suggestion above. I think, at least for once, we are reaching a consensus on your question Tvad; you have your "Goldilock's" answer as to what may be considered too low, too high and "just right" for amplifier output impedance in relation to load.

Of course, I hope everyone understands that this is a huge generalization that applies to SS amps and I would never recommend choosing one component over another based on this criteria alone.

Success! And in only six days...

:)

Success? I would consider damping over 20:1 to be excessive. I use master tapes for reference and one thing has become clear over the years: high damping factor equates to not getting the bass right; retentive (not in a good way) IOW punch without real definition and the first thing to go is always low frequency ambience.

Some speakers are intentionally designed for amps of higher output impedance (new paradigm, BTW) in order to take advantage of the benefits such amps offer. IOW there is no *ideal* value for output impedance- it all depends on the speaker...

The lesson here is that you have to pay attention to the speaker/amplifier interface regardless of the amplifier or speaker that you have chosen. To ignore this means you could flush thousands of dollars away to no good effect.

No success?

Oh well. I've learned a lot. You guys have fun.

Hi Gregm,

No problem, that's a fair question. I won't give a highly specific answer, but hopefully the generalities will be useful.

You can design a crossover with the values optimized to produce the desired transfer function with a minimum number of parts. Or, you can design a more complex crossover that uses what looks like redundant circuitry, such as parallel resistor legs at different places within the circuit. The more complex crossover gives you more options when you start trying to juggle the impedance without spilling the frequency response.

I worked within the minimum-parts-count topology to smooth the impedance, but at best was only able to keep it between 7 and 27 ohms above the bass peaks (a nearly 4-to-1 spread). The 27 ohm maximum was at about 3 kHz, which is not a good place to have a response anomaly.

Switching to a what-the-heck-high-parts-count topology, I got the impedance down to between 8 and 13 ohms above the bass peaks, and the 13 ohm maximum is at 400 Hz where an extra dB or so helps offset the baffle step a bit.

The topology and combination of values that produced a good impedance curve without spoiling the frequency response was largely the result of trial and error. My modelling program did not do a very good job of predicting what the impedance curve would be, perhaps due to non-ideal behavior of the components. So I spent a lot of time changing crossover parts, measuring frequency response, and measuring impedance. I'm sure there's a better way.

Duke