Why are my mosfet fuses blowing?

You are blowing the fuses for the driver stage

The Classé CAM200 equipped with a rail currents sensors to protect the output drivers under extreme condition such as short output, and Mosfet fuses (2AG 1/2 PT, 1/2 amp fast blow) to protect the Mosfets, which are used as pre-drivers for the output stage of the amplifier.

That leads me to believe the problem is with the amp, not the speakers or the volume. There is no reason for the driver stage fuses to blow unless the amp has a problem like one of the output transistors breaking down when it gets very hot.

Have you contacted Classe for their opinion as they suggest in the manual?

IF IT APPEARS THAT PROTECTION FUSES DID BLOW, CONTACT YOUR LOCAL DEALER. DO NOT TRY TO CHANGE A BLOWN FUSE. REPLACING A FUSE WITHOUT CHECKING FOR COMPONENT FAILURE COULD RESULT IN FURTHER, SERIOUS DAMAGE TO VITAL COMPONENTS IN YOUR AMPLIFIER. CONTACT YOUR LOCAL DEALER or Customer Service at the Classé Audio, Inc ---(514) 636 63 84.

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I drove my CS5i's with a CA400. I blew the Mosfet fuses once while listening at only moderate levels. After replacing the fuses I found that one side of the amp (channel) was running hotter than the other. It tuned out that the output devices needed to be re-biased. (yes, the bias can drift) It is rather simple to do. First you adjust the DC offset, then the output device bias average. (all of the output devices will not read the same, I think because Classe uses several different types together) All you need is a multi meter and a small "tweaker" screw driver.
I'm not certian of the internal layout of the CA200. The adjustment pots are located behind the Mosfet fuses on my CA400. You will also need to find out the bias level for the CA200. Ask this question over at the Audio Asylum in the "Amplifier" forum. That's were I was able to get alot of very good help.

Thank you all for the input. I did contact Classe, and they thought it may be a short in the speakers. I am not highly tecnical but if any one knows of a way to confirm if there is a short, I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you for all the help!

A short in the speaker should be audible at moderate levels; one or more of the drivers would not be working. It is also an unlikely scenario. Failures in speakers are typically something burning up because they were over driven. This results in an open, not a short. It is possible that something is physically touching inside that causes a short but you should be able to put your ear up to each driver and see if it is working.

The other simple test, assuming you have access to another set of speakers, is seeing if it blow fuses on another set.

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I like Herman's call. Try other speakers.

I'll bet it still gets warm.
Re bias makes sense as do output devices breaking down under heat / stress.

The temp of the output devices is much hotter than the heatsink and all it would take would be some bad / devitrified heatsink compound to really cook some transistors.

Also, please check out this link to the CS2.3 Thiel. This is the measurement panel from the Stereophile test.
IF this is your speaker, I wouldn't use a bridged amp for any reason. It is a demanding load with a pretty beefy low impedance dip and a pretty nasty hi phase angle, to boot.

http://www.stereophile.com/floorloudspeakers/220/index7.html