Opinions on Reference LP Digitization System ...


I'm considering my options for digitizing my LP collection, and, after doing a bit of research, came up with the following list of components (with current retail prices, noted). Computer itself not included in list. This is all hypothetical.

I'd be aiming for 'reference' but not 'money doesn't matter at all'.

Maybe, rather than choosing/commenting on what *you* would personally choose, think of the following: imagine 100 audiophiles are in a room, including you - what set-up would have the highest average score?

In terms of cartridge, do you think pure neutrality would win out on average (and if so, what cartridge would you suggest) or slightly sweeter/warmer (and again, if so, what cartridge)? Other cartridge thoughts?

Feel free to pick apart the list, but if you substitute something more expensive, that means having to sacrifice elsewhere (the hypothetical list below totals approx. $42,000, so think of approx. $45,000 as your budget, buying new (not from Audiogon)).

Many thanks in advance for any comments received.

VPI HR-X TT + JMW 12.7 tonearm + Valhalla wiring ($15,000)
Air Tight PC-1 Supreme cartridge ($9,000)
Kimber Kable PK14 Palladian power cord for TT ($1,300)
Ginko Cloud 11 (medium) isolation platform for TT ($600)
Ginko dustcover for TT ($400)
Channel D Seta L (rechargeable battery) phonopreamp ($4,100)
Kimber Kable Orchid (preamp-aesb digital connect) ($700)
Lynx AES16 soundcard ($700)
Shunyata Cyclops power conditioner ($2,000)
Grand Prix Audio Monaco 3 shelf stand ($2,900)
VPI Typhoon record cleaner ($2,700)
Furutech DeMag LP demagnetizer ($2,700)
Aesthetix ABCD-1 cartridge demagnetizer ($200)
herschelr
The components you've listed, while superb, may not have the flexibility to archive a large vinyl collection. For the sake of clarity I suggest you ignore all the power cords, stands, power conditioners, etc. and just focus upon the turntable, tonearm, cartridge, phono preamp, A/D converter, digital recorder and editing software.

The turntable/tonearm and cartridge should be easily adjustable in all parameters with settings clearly marked. The assumption is that you will optimize playback for each recording which will require VTF, VTA, azimuth, etc. being constantly adjusted. You may want a turntable that supports multiple tonearms. This will make it easier to use a mono cartridge or another cartridge than the AirTight. Some recordings may sound better with different tonearm/cartridge combos.

The phono preamp should have a mono switch and variable load settings accessible on the front panel. Do you need the ability to vary EQ curve? You'll need it if you are going to archive older records with non-RIAA settings.

Are you going to run the phono preamp directly into the A/D or connect them using a preamp? It's important if you want to monitor and compare signals in real time. If the phono preamp doesn't have balanced outputs you'll need to convert to balanced somewhere before the A/D conversion since nearly all high quality converters have only balanced inputs.

The A/D converter should have metering, not just an "over" light. It should also have user adjustable level calibration. Additionally you will need some sort of attenuator at the A/D inputs if the converter doesn't already have one, most don't. Some A/Ds have built-in monitoring capabilities which may be important to your setup.

Your recorder can either be a computer/software combo or a dedicated stand alone recorder. I'd recommend the computer/software route since you'll need it anyway. (The stand alone recorders are basically dedicated computer, so I don't buy the anti-computer argument). However, Korg makes an excellent recorder that will also allow you to record in the Sony DSD format. Don't skimp on the editing software and I strongly recommend you have a noise removal program. If you are going to make CDs from you archives you should note that all SRC programs are not created equal.

A few components you should consider:
Millennia LOC phono preamp
Burl A/D
Mytek AD192
Audiophile Engineering Sample Manager SRC software
Isn't the Channel D phono preamp sans RIAA, which is then applied in software by the computer? I think there's a very good case to be made for going that way. You can choose from different equalizations, use pop and click removal if you want, apply EQ where needed, and so forth. Since you are taking the vinyl into digital, might as well avail yourself of digital's advantages. Which is the whole idea of Channel D and what Rob has been working on for years. Talk to him before you finalize your decisions.
I am in the process of digitizing my albums. You cannot tell the difference between the vinyl and digital copies. Steps include
1. VPI TNT 3.5/rega 600/ Lyra Helikon to Conrad Johnson Premier 15 Series 2 to Korg 2000s
2. Korg to Mac and stored in 96k/24 bit format
3. Play back system: Mac mini to Berkeley alpha usb to Berkeley alpha dac to Conrad johnson et5 to Cary 805C to Wilson Watt Puppy 7.
I would just buy a Barrington portable turntable and carry it and my LP collection in a backpack...

http://s1039.photobucket.com/albums/a474/johmbolaya/assorted/?action=view¤t=BarringtonPortable_01.jpg
I have been digitizing lps for over 14 years, initially using a Pioneer PDR-609 CD recorder and a B&O TX-2 with MMC2 cartridge in an ADCOM component system. Then I used a Masterlink ML-9600 recorder, another fine machine.

My system has improved to get much better dubs. Now I use a Tascam DV-RA1000HD recorder, Whest PS.30R phono preamp, Rega RP3 with an Ortofon Black 2M cartridge. All of this is powered by Conrad Johnson separates, while I do not need those to record to the Tascam's HD.

Further, I had the Tascam modified by Jim Williams of Audio Upgrades to the A/D-D/A, and other bits. Also, on my Rega, I upgraded to the reference subplatter by Groovetracer, and Frank Smillie's Delrin platter and 110gm counter-weight. In addition, because of the VTA, I installed Rega's height adjustment part under the base of the tonearm.

My routine is to clean every record on a VPI-17, play once or twice, then record to the Tascam, pull those files into my MacBook Pro, process the tracks (I record a side at a time) with ClickRepair, then use Audacity do fade in and outs and to parse and name tracks that I save back to my Mac as WAV files. Typically I record at 24 bits and either 44.1kH or 88.2kH and dither down in Audacity.

I use Taiyo Yuden Watershield CDs exclusively now. But MAM CD are great also. I like the TY CDs since I print artwork on them with an Epsom Photo Stylus printer (designed to print on CDs) that looks quite professional.

There is a lot of controversy in my view about recording settings. I point you to this very thoughtful discussion: http://people.xiph.org/~xiphmont/demo/neil-young.html. But I have read just about everything on the internet about what is right and I have done my own listening tests.

Since most of my dubs are for playing in my camper or car, I do not fret too much about it, given the outside noise and medium quality car stereo(s). The other issue is Red Book CD players. You have to end up at 16 bit and 44.1kHz no matter what.

If you are archiving to a storage device for playback, I recommend that you record one or two lps at all the settings available, then after you have done the processing you want, listen to decide what you like best. That will be the acid test.

Good luck.