Most Effective Tweaks

Send your favorite ics and scs and pcs to Doug at Cryo-Nebraska. If you liked your cables before, you should fall in love with them after. All for about $100 or less.

Replace all external and especially internal fuses with cryo-treated gold-plated ones.

Install cryo-treated audio-grade wall outlets, male plugs, IEC connectors, IEC inlets, etc..

Install double-cryo-treated Romex house-wire from the service panel to your audio outlets.

Install dedicated circuits and lines for your audio components, esuring that your amps have all the juice they need and your digital (cdp, dac, etc..) are on their own dedicated circuits/lines and separated from your tt, pre, amps because of the bi-directional digital noise induced by all digital. (dedicated lines should help but the only cure is bi-directional filtering line-conditioners.)

Get rid of all kitty litter, tennis balls, sorbathane, hockey pucks, sand, mdf, pods, cork, plexiglas, glass, drain stoppers, and all similar junk people install under their components to try to isolate and dampen vibrations and resonant energy. All of these things serve a purpose in life, but should have nothing to do with reproducing superior sonics in a 'high-end' audio system. Any scientist worth his weight will tell you it is against the laws of physics to isolate from vibration. And when you attempt to 'dampen' you squash the dynamics and other aspects of the music and at best it's a complete crapshoot. Instead seek rigidity with mating surfaces in order to create an expedited drain path for all captured resonant energy to exit the components. Rather than trap those vibrations within. Remember, vibrations are captured in a moment in time, but they can only disapate over a period of time.

Standard disclaimers apply, YMMV, IMO, etc..

just tagging this one

Vibe isolation like cones or platforms.$1K plus power condtioners (cgeaper ones just are gloiified protection).Heavy stands even for florstanders.Note tha in 80's and 90's verybody who owend B&W's (and the 801 was best selling audiophile speaker of all time) all had Sound Anchor heavy iron stands..Not just monitor stands but Bob Warzalla can sell you bases that add mass and decouple speakers from floors which can have huge improvement especially with wood floors.His stands are great to but many now prefer ones with each shelf having a point and recepticle for each shalf.Still the Sound Anchors can add vibe killing mass andf then you just use cones/points under the hsleves.Willing to try a lo but too much snake oil (bottle of stones ,little clocks or like Shakti Stone or cables that cost insane porices I avoid.Have to keep cost effectiveness in mind.
Chazz
Chazzbo

Acoustic fiber fill wrapped around the whizzer cone in Fostex drivers to stabilize the cone.

You probably already have them, but if you don't, get dedicated lines. I think they are the biggest bang for your buck available in Hi-Fi.

Now for a controversial suggestion - get your cables burned in on Nordost's new Vidar system. I am likely to labled as a sucker for audio voodoo by suggesting this, but I can only say it really works. I NEVER would have believed it, but people I trust told me to try it. They were right - my cables sound dramatically better. Please don't ask me to offer any logical explanation for why running a computer programmed pattern of frequencies through my cables for four days should make them sound any different - they just do.