RECOMMEDATIONS FOR AC RECEPTACLE

If you dont want to send extra cash on new outlets, give them a couple weeks to burn in and see if the hash dissappears. I use PS Power Ports and I dont have any hash. All the other suggestions are great as well. Just give it a few weeks and then compare. HAVE FUN!

I respect everyone's opinion about the higher price of the Oyaide. Here is how I look at it. The Oyaide outlets are about $100. Compared to what I willingly spent on my other components, this is really nothing. After installing the outlets in my system, I was completely surprised at how much better everything sounded. The biggest improvement was had with Oyaides on my cdp and pre. I only heard slight differences on my amps which already have massive filters and capacitance. The two main things I noticed was much fuller and deeper bass as well as more detail. Nothing aside from new cdp and speakers had this much of an impact on my system so from my point of view, the few hundred dollars I spent was a very small price to pay considering what I got in return. In fact, I am now a total believer in the importance of power delivery. I upgrading to the Oyaide plugs as well as looking into AC filters or regen units. It should be noted that I do not currently have any AC filter or dedicated lines. Perhaps this is why I noticed such a dramatic improvement with the Oyaide outlets. Others who have already improved their AC delivery may only hear a slight improvement, if any. I wish I could do a dedicated line but I would have to do some major demolition in order to accomplish this. For now, I will have to happily live with my Oyaides.

Good luck!

I replaced a handful of Hart Arrow receptacles with Acme silver plated jobs I traded Bob Crump for. The Acmes outperformed the Hart Arrows, which in turn had outperformed Hubbles, at least in my system. The Acmes are very open and robust sounding, kinda like Bob's cables,

Things have gotten a lot more complicated in the last few years, what with contact enhancers and outlet covers and all, making it more difficult to evaluate things right out of the box.

I do agree, "good is the enemy of the best"... but I'll take a different tact.

I don't think it's the outlet adding to the problem. it maybe is helping to show it though.

I've four dedicated lines. Worried about outlets a goodly bit. Leaned on my experience as an electrician and decided this... use those outlets which will provide insertion of a device without arcing, and have the greatest surface area and grip. I went with simple hospital grade 20a duplex outlets.

given the level of gear you posted here, I'd think well about replacing the Monster regulator as they tend to induce more of a hardend upper end. Perhaps thinking about a passive line filter coming off the Monster, or in place of it would provide better results. I use only the aforementioned hosp grade 20a outlets and PS Audio line filters. Two Duets for the gear, and a UPC 200 for all the wall warts and PC gear. I could not be happier... and maybe ignorance is bliss. Don't know, but that path does work quite well.

If it were otherwise, and ONLY attention needs be given to the outlet itself, Why then are the proponents of these higher priced gizmos using apparatus after the outlet to further condition system conponents?

Spend money where it needs be spent, I say. tight gripping well made, durable outlets, and condition thereafter using the money you didn't spend on outlets.

As I mentioned previously, the issue maybe elsewhere... dedicated lines aren't the end all be all for supplying components good power. if the dedicated lines were installed using the same bus as that supplying household appliances, fans, hot water heaters, fridges, etc, or lighting with poorly designed dampers, you've not helped yourself a lot. Some good bit, but not terribly.

The thing about dedicated lines is this, ultimatedly they share whatever issues are pre-exsisting in the homes power feed. The same neutral/return, and the same supply bus. Dedicated is segregated or separated entirely, just lessend of the direct impact or influence of other problems. A separately installed iso transformer is needed to better remove any issues from that of the feed to those D lines.

Quick note... you said you were using a secondary isolated ground. Although a good idea usually, Depending upon the application/implementation of the iso ground, some difference of poetential can exist... causing a ground loop. An easy fix for that is an inductor. Simply looping some 10 or 12 AWG solid wire wound round and roung and then taped up and shoved into the wall, can eliminate that issue sufficiently to make it unoticeable.

Remenber unless the D lines use a t-former, somwhere along the line, somewhere in the home, both the neutral and the other ground come back into the ckt.... just the effect is lessend or takes longer to be realized.

When I installed my hosp outlets I did not add the ground/common line of the D ckts to every outlet. Just one. Violin! No hum, buzz, sibalence, top end harshness. Dead quiet, and I use tube preamp and mono blocks.

I found that elsewhere in my home, other things were either contributing to, or directly affecting that top end, or upper midrange on up... ground loops, primarily, but appliances too. I put chaeater plugs on the washing mach. diswasher, and fridge. Five minutes and 2 bucks later thijngs were better.

Also, Computers and their accesories leak DC back onto the power line. Hence the UPC 200 AND SOME EXTENSION CORDS. Even my cable system and/or sattelite added to the mix negatively. I used a coax transformer from Dayton on the cable feed directly attached to the converter box, which in turn is connected to my system.

before spending tons on a new set of whozits high end outlets, or making major moves in the system... Fire up the system and listen a bit, then turn off the rest of the breakers in the home not associated with the system, and listen. how's the sound? then one by one flip on a breaker, listen again.. this can be done pretty rapidly, with just a few minutes between each energizing... and just keep listening. Another body to just flip the breakers on whill facilitate things. I think you'll find the issue that way... if nothing changes as the result of that exercise, Try just unplugging the coax going to the cable/sat box, or ant to the TV.

Taking a few minutes to do the above is quite telling and my most sincere recommendation. Addressing a problem is best done if you know first hand where or what the problem is at the on set. therre's no guess work then.

THEN go add well built outlets and conditoning thereafter IF desired or even necessary, and I do feel they are.

Before I spent hundreds of dollars on something that I don't know about, I'd spend a few minutes determining what I do know.

Good luck.

Received them and installed them and almost immediately I notice my HDTV picture had greater clarity and it cleaned up the video noise. The Picture is awesome and the graphics didn't have those little jagged edges.

In the meantime, my music jumped out at me, with greater transparent detail, depth, and tighter bass. But I also noticed that the highs were a tad bit harsh especially on piano.

Like others have said the outlets probably need more burn-in time.
Unless the PS audio Power Ports have been changed the contacts and supporting back strap are nickel plated. Many say that's not good.
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Just finished running a dedicated line with two circuits with an isolated ground.

Isolated ground? Did you still tie the receptacle equipment grounds back to the ground bar in the electrical panel the dedicated branch circuits were fed from?