BUT it would be irresponsible in my opinion to NOT remind the reader that brand-Y- which might be homely looking in comparison- for a fraction of the cost, will give you 95% of the performance. i can't remember names that well,but take out some older stereophiles (the little ones), and you may see what i'm talking about. high-value gear was often high-lighted "with a big flashing arrow".
That was Gordon Holt's influence I suspect (founder of Stereophile). They changed ownership and he left...advertisers/ad budget may have had something to do with it, who knows. Today, more than ever, a reviewer MUST be able to hear the improvements of stratospheric prices and this years model versus last years. Furthermore, negative reviews are simply NOT ALLOWED at all (some reviewers try to put "in between the lines" info to indicate that they really don't like a product but these people are very rare).
In essence, the magazines start out with good intentions and then little by little, as they gain circulation, inevitably the ad $$$ take over and the "tail wags the dog!"
"What Hi-Fi", a UK rag, probably remains the nearest to down to earth advice that I have seen.