Basic electrical questions.


Please pardon my basic electrical questions but i want to make sure i set up my system properly. I understand that dedicated lines are preferred for audio systems because the signal is cleaner. Does this eliminate the need for a line conditioner? Also, some people say they have separate dedicated lines for each component. I'm assuming then each component would plug directly into it's own wall outlet receptacle. If this is the case, how would a surge protector be used? Wouldn't it be better to plug the components directly into the surge protector and then the protector into the wall? And finally, i've read that amps should be plugged directly into the wall, but the outlet and circuit should be 20 amp. My amp plug is a 15 amp. Are there wall outlet configurations that accept 15 and 20 amp plugs, or would i have to change out the amp plug to a 20 amp? Well, that's it. Hope i didn't confuse anyone!
robert22
Dedicated lines are a good thing... but not the best solutions of and by themselves.

Dedicated lines merely limit added issues from the rest of the household. remember, ultimately, the neutrals and grounds are tied together. Even still, dedicated is good.

I have 4 dedicated 20A ckts, but use mainly 3 of them. I put better outlets on those 3 too. Nothing fancy, just hospital grade.

Power conditioning, passive or active works. Current and bandwidth limitations are noteable items to look for when selecting the type you desire.

I use passsive filtering/conditioning on all my main rig devices. preamp, power amps, sources, etc. Albeit, different filters for sources than for power trains.

Many do plug amps right into the dedicated wall sockets. Better? Try that first and see how you like it... then add a conditioner of sorts. Then you will actually know what's best for you and your gear.

Lots of ways to go here. Many roads lead to Albuquerque... or is it Rome.
My house has the old two prong outlets, so i'll have to change those out.I know i could use a cheater plug, but i'd rather put in new outlets. I checked the breaker panel and there aren't any extra breakers,so that does that mean i need a new breaker panel in order to install new lines?
3 prong 15 amp outlets are under a buck a piece - 20 amp outlets are about $5 each.
You will need a sub panel to run your dedicated lines.
While you're at it: You may also want to run another dedicated line to run your TV/AV/HT system in another room.
If you're using monoblock amps - 3 dedicated lines would work best - 1 for each amp & 1 for a power conditioner.
All the best
Can someone offer either a technical explanation, or at least some persuasive anecdotal evidence, to explain the claim that running multiple dedicated lines to the different components of a single system is beneficial. As I indicated in my earlier post:

"I'm uncertain about the concept of having multiple dedicated lines for different parts of the system. I would be concerned that voltage offsets could be introduced between the grounds of the different components, which could lead to ground loop noise. Same goes for having parts of the system on a surge suppressor, and other parts of the system on a different suppressor or no suppressor -- the result would be some degree of isolation between the ac grounds of the different components in the system, at least at high frequencies, due to inductive filtering in the suppressors, and inductance in the house wiring, which might cause ground loop issues."

Regards,
-- Al
RE Another breaker box?

No. Well, not necessarily. Depends on the breakers actual physical nlayout. are there any blank (unused) spaces? If so your job will be much easier. Also the actual width of standard breakers (if used) allows for some hidden growth by using half sized breakers. Though physiccally half the size they'll carry the same current load and work as effectively.

Standard size is about 1/2 inch across. There are half size breakers called waffer breakers. By removing the standard sized one and inserting two half size ones, you'll gain one additional circuit. Remove two std, and gain two ckts using four waffers.

The main consideration here is this... the current load of the breaker box. Usually there are blanks (unused) spaces in any new installation put there for growth such as this desire. Adding a couple 20a breakers there in std size might be OK. provided there are blanks preexisting. otherwise the choice is this... a sub panel as was said, or the use of waffers.

I can't actually for true tell you that adding a couple half size breakers to gain two added ckts is safe, or right for your situation. I'd need to be there for that... so call one of your electrican friends to come over and have a look first.

I've done it myself in other homes though without issue... BUT TO BE SAFE AND SURE... SEEK OUT A QUALIFIED LOCAL SPARKY TO TAKE A LOOK SEE FIRST.

Where the waffers, if used, are placed (which phase) is a little important too. I had mine put on the lighting phase, instead of on the side supplying all the appliances. As well and if possible placing the new ckts closest to the incoming feed to the panel (top or bottom, depending on the panel) will help too. marginally in some cases, more so in others. Depends on the adjacent ckts.

usually, 'Sparkies' will say it doesn't matter, by and large.

Were I to add a sub panel I would also add an isolation transformer supplying that newest panel too. There are transformers which will also condition better the power incoming and passing thru it as well as isolation from the rest of the household effects.

Lastly, when ya add these new receptacles - ckts, think about adding four outlets to each vs. two, on one or both of the new lines. One never knows what one might need later.

Call an electrician first, in any event.... even if you wind up doing the work yourself.