Variac differences and use


I am looking for information or recommendations on buying and using a variac for some older tube equipment that has been sitting for some time.
Thank You in advance for the help
guycom
Hi Rodman -- Those sound to me like good instructions for a new build, using new parts. And I note that you listed "connect ... output" prior to "play the sucker," which avoids the possibility of inductive kickback problems in the output xfmr, which as described above can potentially cause much more serious problems than the other issue which was discussed (operating without all of the tubes present).

As far as that second issue is concerned (B+ elevation due to some tubes not being present), I would think that generally would be fine with new electrolytics, assuming their voltage rating is conservatively specified in the design, but with old ones that may be partially dried out and/or need reforming, it would be more risky.

Best regards,
-- Al
You're right, and I've always considered the caps that were manufactured long enough ago to present a problem, inferior to current ones(whatever the year I was working on unit). I always replaced/upgraded the capacitance when doing a PS, or recommended doing so(if an older unit was opened for any reason). It was nice when the large Rubycon Black Gate electrolytics were readily available, and at reasonable prices(fond memories). I wish Sanyo would offer their OS-CONs in higher voltages and capacitances.
In case you plan to buy a Variac to reform caps on old valve equipment, an alternate can be had for almost nothing....

A series lamp with the mains input.

Depending on the product and the anticipated load, ( eg Pre & Power amps will draw Hugely different Mains current.. ) start with a Low wattage bulb (incandescent lamp).

Could be a 25 Watt bulb / lamp for a power amp. On switch on, the lamp will take most of the voltage across it. In case of a short circuit ibn the amp, the Lamp will limit the current in the circuit automatically.

Leave the 25 Watt lamp in place for as long as you want to form the caps at a low voltage and then move to a 50 Watt lamp, and later a 100 Watt ( or even multiple 100 Watters in parallel).

As the capacitors form, the lamp will glow Less bright ( could take overnight or longer. ) This is a good visual indicator too.

I live in a country with 240 VAC Mains.

I have also found the series lamp excellent as a Short Circuit Protection... current fold-back, while experimenting.

NOTE: This will work only with an Incandescent lamp and not with CFLs. I am told that incandescents are banned in Australia...