Thiel cs2.4 upgrade to cs 2.4 se


I'm currently using thiel cs2.4. Any master can advise on how to upgrade to cs2.4se by changing its capacity? May i know the value and specs of the capacitors? What is the sound difference between cs2.4 vs dc2.4se? Tq
desmond888
Today I made a recording of my installation with the song Takla Makan by Yello, sound recording was made with a Tascam DR-40 v2 in the format WAV 24bit-48k, the video is just from my phone.

Now is You-Tube not the most suitable medium for sound and often there is no option to listen to it optimally via the equipment You-Tube plays, so also a link from the original sound file for download so you can directly put the file in your music streamer for the best result.
This recording gives only an impression and is far from how it sounds 1: 1 but I thought it would be nice to share it.

Original sound file out of the Tascam:
https://free01.thegood.cloud/index.php/s/WjKpX2wADS37x8H

You-Tube link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_CIpgiH5Zo&t=117s
Yesterday I placed the last upgrade of this project, I am talking about the Jantzen wax coil's that took some time to arrive but finally I have them mounted on the woofer crossovers and listened for a few hours to what they do in the whole picture.

Believe me, the Wax coils are the icing on the cake!!

Equal to the coax, the upper bass / low mids in the room now places more up front and outside the speakers and the bass / low mids has more weight / push and detail, the Wax coils clearly!! show an improvement with every kind of music in the lower regions, music with low voices like for example Leonard Cohen sounds really freaking good.

I am totally happy with how the speakers are performing now, by default I was already very impressed with the CS2.4 but now they perform at a totally different level!! what I want to say more is that there is absolutely no sharpness or rawness to hear, rather the opposite!! with still the beautiful Thiel character present.
I made a new recording of my CS2.4 with now also the Jantzen wax coils mounted.
The recording is made twice, 1 time with the Thiel's connected to earth and 1 time without the earth connection, the recording is mixed so that every 30sec is switched between the two recordings, you can also see that in the picture if there is or not a ground wire to be seen next to the speakers.

I do not hear a difference myself, but it could be that the speakers first have to play a week without the earth wire to hear a difference, who knows ........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wws3q_bQCiw

Direct link for download
https://free01.thegood.cloud/index.php/s/kQQZQ8e2QY9LTW6
Dear holco,

Your system looks neat and clean.

Well done for your upgrade. Your system sounds wonderful. I can  hear that your system is very airy and opened now. The sound stage is big and wide.The high frequency is well extended without fatigue but smooth. Your speakers have  wide dispersion.  The speakers sound  totally disappeared from your system.

The above are just my two cents.

Dear jafant,

I'm using meridian cd player g08 for source, goldmund 18.4 mono blocks paired with pathos in control pre-amp driving thiel 2.4.
As my power amp is currently out for service, i have used my av amp, denon to run in my speakers.
I hear the mid starts to open up and high is more resolved. Hope that the mid can open up more and make it sounds balance. Otherwise, i may need to un and resolder the caps. 

You are using thiel speakers too? Can you share your system with us?
 

Dear holco,

After you mounted the Jantzen wax coils, i noticed the sound is more transparent but slightly edgy. I think you need to run in further to discover its full potential.

I strongly believe that it is another great upgrade.
desmond888,

I call it more bite ;) really like how they are now and think I have taken the maximum out of the CS2.4 :)
think I have taken the maximum out of the CS2.4
I think I'm there, too. If I had ample money and time, it would be interesting to experiment with ultra caps (Jupiter, Dueland), resistors (Path), and try the wax foil coils. But if I had that much money I would probably just buy Vandersteen 7s and call it a day!
I think my modded 2.4s sound as good or better than anything new up to at least $20K and for a fraction of the price.
Same for me beetlemania,  it's like I said before, I now have loudspeakers that I never thought I good own. 

But there is one more thing that lingers in my head to improve, maybe later ......
@holco 


I now have Cardas hookup wire plus double binding posts in one channel. Some of the job was challenging but everything seems good in the final result. Going to let it cook for a few days before I compare to the other channel in mono.
desmond888
have you found a source to repair the power amp? Hope you are making connections for servicing out there.
Beetlemania, 

Good to hear that you finally found the time to upgrade the internal wirering, very curious about your findings!!
very curious about your findings!!
I will post my subjective impressions. Hope to find time to compare this weekend.
Lately, i'm busy with company new system. I have yet to find and send it a suitable technician.
desmond888Thank You for the update. I look forward in reading more about your new company system.  Happy Listening!
very curious about your findings!!

@holco

 

I was able to compare the Cardas and FST channels in mono over the weekend. Not an apples to apples comparison because I used the Cardas in biwire configuration, so changed two variables at once (actually three variables: hookup wire, binding posts, and biwire cabling). I do have jumpers and will compare biwire to single speaker cable later (in stereo instead of mono) but wanted to maximize any differences for this test.

One thing I did *not* hear was increased bass impact as you reported. There was one song where I *did* hear much more prominent bass (and a less than pleasing glow on vocals and such) but it turned out that I failed to disconnect the FST channel, so was hearing the output from both speakers (the FST speaker was behind and slightly to the side of the Cardas speaker at the time). Laughing out loud.

First off, the FST channel sounded great and I would have been happy if that were the final configuration. The Cardas didn’t reveal FST wire to be “broken”. That said, the Cardas wire/binding posts bring what I would call an ultimate level of refinement. The differences were subtle in mono but important for the sound I’ve been seeking. I heard more immediacy/presence, more flesh. A bit richer tonal saturation. This was most apparent on vocals and instruments sharing the frequency of human voice (guitar, violin, woodwinds, etc). Also, acoustic bass, kettle drums and toms. I did *not* hear any differences on cymbals, chimes, and bells.

Yesterday I installed the Cardas in the second channel. Listening in stereo revealed that this effort and expense was well worth it. It’s hard to describe the sonics, but I’ll try. The Cardas wire/posts (and biwire speaker cables) “snapped everything into focus”, gelled the sonic picture into a cohesive whole. I would say more openness and clarity, more immediacy, denser images, more holographic, and a sweeter/richer midrange. I had been considering an ultra bypass cap to sweeten the midrange – no longer on my to-do list.

There is no end to combinations to investigate. My configuration came mostly from the mind of Tom Thiel who brought his wealth of knowledge and experience, and spent many months researching the possibilities for the CS2.4. With more time and money, I thought I might further investigate some “ultra” possibilities (Clarity CMR caps, possibly mixed with Jantzen Alumen Z; Jupiter copper foil or Audyn True Copper Max bypasses; Path Audio resistors in the coax and woofer feeds). But that was before I heard my configuration with the Cardas. The sound I am getting is astounding. Other than low bass, I really can’t ask for better performance. Just, WOW!


Hi beetlemania,

As for the cables, I was wondering if you also changed the cables that go from the xover boards to the coax and bass drivers?

Thanks.
Sound's good beetlemania, what a piece of wire can do ;)

Btw, the tighter/more bass was with the wax coil's
@andy2
I replaced every passive part from the binding posts to the driver hookup wire.
Binding posts: Cardas "CPBP" (rhodium over silver), dual for biwire
Woofer in: Cardas 2x15 ga twisted pair plus 2x17.5 ga hand twisted (~14 ga equivalent)
Woofer out: Cardas 2x15 ga twisted pair
Coax in: Cardas 2x15 ga twisted pair
Coax out: Cardas 2x17.5 ga hand twisted
(wire gauge per Tom Thiel recommendation; OEM wire was 18 ga throughout)
Btw, the tighter/more bass was with the wax coil's
Ah, please remind me how your new wire changed the sound.
what a piece of wire can do ;)
That's what I've been saying all along.  One probably has to be pretty "cable callous" not to believe. :-)
IME, put the crossover outboard improve clarity.
I think there may be an aesthetic issue.  One of the thing I like the most about the CS2.4 is its well-proportioned.  They look just right.  With an outboard xover box, that could be an issue ... at least for me.
Early on, Tom and I considered outboard and I canvassed the Thiel Owners thread to gauge demand. Plusses include heat management, vibration control, and freedom to use large parts. Minuses include reduced WAF and added cost. I have no regrets with my configuration.
Beetle regardding outboard xo's didn't Tom say something about the length of the wire to the drivers form the xo being significant to the design? Maybe not. If there is no adjustments for design criteria going to an outboard xo I would rather get outboard if it has the most sound advantages.
Beetle regardding outboard xo's didn't Tom say something about the length of the wire to the drivers form the xo being significant to the design? Maybe not. If there is no adjustments for design criteria going to an outboard xo I would rather get outboard if it has the most sound advantages.

That is true that given the same configuration, having an outboard xo will require a slightly longer wire run from the outboard outputs to the driver inputs.

But if you're going outboard, you will have to modify the binding posts to bi-wire anyway.  And if you're brave enough, you could place the bind posts on the back panel right behind the drivers (by drilling a few holes) which will shorten the wire run to the point which it will not be an issue.