I have two systems, a computer audio system upstairs and my main home theater system. In the home theater, I am actually using the rhodium plated FI-52 for all my primary amps because it was the only 20 AMP IEC (C19) connector that was pure copper. I use rhodium FI-50 IEC for my Krell processor and rhodium FI-28 IEC for surrounds (as well as anything upstairs). I’m using rhodium FI-28 for the male plugs everywhere. Upstairs computer audio has a Belkin power conditioner that everything plugs into (I use it as a master switch as well). It’s a modified DAC, with a modified Rane stereo line mixer going to two Yamaha studio monitors.
Downstairs, I use a Furutech GTX rhodium outlet for the Krell processor. I’m currently using Furutech FPX-Cu outlets (un-plated copper) for all amps, but I will be converting to rhodium plated GTX or FPX in the next few months.
All my power cable is hand made. I use 20awg solid-core OCC copper conductors with Teflon coating (the Neotech chassis wire) for my power cords. Each power cord has eighteen 20awg conductors -- 6 conductors per leg (hot/neutral/ground). I braid all the conductors -- each braid has a hot/neutral/ground, so that makes 6 braids for a power cable, making it a 12awg power cable in total.
All my computer audio system equipment uses Furutech fuses. Downstairs, the Krell processor uses Furutech, but all my amps use Isoclean. I will be converting those amp fuses over to Furutech in the coming months.
I’ve gone through almost every power cord situation. Many years ago, I started with stock cables, then upgraded to cheap 12awg cables. Then went to DIY cables using stranded THHN 10awg copper from home depot. Using shielding/non-shielding. Tried different solid-core conductors (16awg, 18awg, 20awg, 22awg). Tried straight/twisting/braided (braided was the best as it calms down brightness and for some reason it just sounds "right" -- it also provides a natural shield because of the counter-rotating ground/neutral conductors) Tried Hubbel hospital outlets and Wattgate connectors until I determined the brass was causing a lot of sterile/shouty character. Tried different gold-plated and rhodium plated Neotech connectors. Tried gold-plated, rhodium-plated, un-plated Furutech. In the end, I think you get what you pay for, but component synergy is a big factor.
If you’re on a budget, you could try getting the brass PorterPorts as outlets and then use a Furutech gold-plated male plug to compensate for the fast/sterile character of the Porter. Then use a rhodium plated IEC. Further tweaking could mean trying an Isoclean fuse, or a Furutech rhodium fuse. The gold-plated male would probably equalize the very forward/fast/sterile character of the Porter outlets.
That is just an idea I think might work out based on my historical experience with different types of metals. I ended up with rhodium-plated all the way through. I believe this sounds the best, but it is also the most expensive.