Correct way to attach speaker wires... Wait, what!!!

randy-111,326 posts08-15-2017 3:01pmvinegar works - but why not just protect the connection so you don't have to clean it??

food vinegar won't work. cleaner vinegar from home depot or similar retailers will. 

unterminated wires work very well as one reason and another reason that i can shift manual tranny better than any today's automatic tranny and, finally, each and everyone prefers to mustarbate one's own way.

food vinegar or any vinegar WILL work - use a white vinegar to avoid getting thyme or tarragon your wires* - the lower acidity vinegars will simply take longer to alter Cu-oxide back to Cu

do they not teach chemistry in high school these days??

if you want find a photo lab with old chemicals and use the acetic acid they have - it can be diluted if need be

or...  simply abrade the wire ends

just BE SURE to observe the correct WIRE DIRECTIONALITY as you move the sand paper !!


* an exception would be if you play only the Provence Harmonic Orchestra

All this jazz about terminations and wire... 
You do know that the makers of the active and passive devices in your amp don't get this weird about the leads on their stuff. Pretty much all the connections that aren't solder are gold on gold because it never corrodes, at least if it's quality stuff. I'm going to guess that if a gold on gold connection is good enough to address memory in the GHz range, it should handle audio just fine. 

grannyring,
Yes it does. I was using solid core music meter wire prior to this & the duelund made a very noticeable difference. Highly recommended. 

"Colloidal copper preparation compounds". They work for silver and other metals as well. "Kopr-shield" is one. It's an anti corrosion treatment for connections that will not only keep copper from oxidizing it will enhance the resistance properties, "lower resistance" of the termination.    
     There is another product whose name currently escapes me. It's a high silver "powder" content, anti-oxidation treatment. I believe "Parts Express" carries it.    Why audiophiles don't use this more often escapes me.  That this works is a quantifiable fact. Easily measured with a meter as resistance but that measurement will not give you any given frequencies loss or corruption, "one type of distortion". Which is a factor when talking about line transmission. Most know something about frequency induction along the signal path but not so much about signal degradation and corruption. If a given frequency degrades enough, most will think it wasn't there to begin with. And if corrupted until it's simply distortion we think it's something to get rid of when in fact the opposite is true. It needs to be saved. Therefore the goal should be insulative in nature to protect the sanctity of the source signal. That would also help with induction of "other than true source" energy.    "Ramble, ramble, ramble...."   So those are my 2 cents! And if you don't at least try this you should be relegated to using only lamp cord for speaker and signal wire for eternity! Or at least until you can come up with the $27 bucks for the 16oz. container of said compound. Which ever comes first.