Need some help soldering Binding posts.

I have a high wattage iron I use mainly for Cardas binding posts.  I think it is 80 watts but don't recall exactly.  After the iron is fully heated up, I place the tip firmly against the outside of the post while the wire I intend to attach to it is resting in the opening of the post.  (The wire is tinned in advance.). After 5 seconds or so, the interior of the post is hot enough that I can apply Cardas solder to the interior of the opening and it flows quickly and smoothly over the wire and along its sides where it is touching the post.  I only use enough solder to coat the wire and have it join smoothly to the post.  Then I quickly place the flat tip of a screwdriver on the wire and press it firmly against the wire and post while the solder cools.  To be on the safe side, I leave the screwdriver there for 10 or 15 seconds until I am sure the joint is secure.  The keys are to make sure there is a good mechanical connection, use enough heat, make sure the joint is fully heated up before solder is applied, and don't let anything move before the solder cools.  Works every time.

"Use PLENTY of HEAT - we use TWO 35W soldering irons when soldering binding posts - and +1 to the comment above - there should first be a very solid electrical connection then apply solder to make it stick."

As I mentioned in my initial post per Cardas, I now use a 300 watt soldering iron with some flux paste in the binding post where the wire will lay. I can assure you that it is a night and day difference in both how the solder acts and it also results in a higher fidelity sound. I believe that this is why readers should not jump to a conclusion right away that results in them simply parroting what they have read before in other posts.

Use PLENTY of HEAT - we use TWO 35W soldering irons when soldering binding posts

+1 or use a 50w-100w iron.

Cheers George

UPDATE: Sonic Craft has recently told me that they always loop the hookup wire through the little hole in the tip of the Cardas binding post before soldering. So, I apologize to those whom I disparaged. 

However, Sonic Craft still commands that a 250 watt+ soldering iron be used. I can verify that the post heats up so quickly with that wattage iron that within a matter of perhaps 30 seconds the solder literally flows even more quickly than water. Just use enough to hold the connection. Do not fill up the tube with solder as I think it deadens the sound and I know for certain that doing so wastes a ton of solder. Additionally, I would say after having filled up 18 Cardas binding posts with solder (7.2 system with passive subwoofers) while using a 60 watt iron, installing them all to the speakers, then uninstalling them, heating the posts, dumping the solder, and then re-soldering using a 250 watt iron after laying down some extra flux and just enough solder to solidly hold the connection, that the improvement in sound quality is amazing.

The rule in my day as a tech were to make the connection physically sound, and then solder. Do not use solder as a glue.