Neutral or Detailed. You can't have both

Well, to me "neutral" would entail "detailed", since there are a lot of instruments in music that have sharp, clear sounds.

I have both and love it!!!!!

Reproduction of detail is a function of rise time, both in the electronics (some are faster than others) and the speakers. I.e., how fully  the speakers' drivers fully respond to low level input. The fast ones provide a full response. The slow ones don't. You can retrieve more detail by turning the treble up or goosing the signal to the tweeter, but then the treble becomes hyped up and you lose the neutral tonal balance.
Anyway, you can have detail *and* neutrality if the speaker drivers (and particularly the tweeters) have a fast rise time.
I have a pair of Magneplanar 1.7s and I get great neutrality and realistic detail at the same time. My tube preamps and Perreaux MOSFET amp also help the cause.

Huh... One of the things the FGU is notes for, micro-motor Be tweeters and all, is sounding as smooth and detailed at a whisper as they do going full tilt. 

The discussion here is like something from the stone-age. Firstly the discussion starts with a confusion of enhanced treble with detail. Certainly you will hear more high frequency detail with hyped treble,  youwill also hear more high frequncy hash.
Let me introduce you to a new concept, mechanical resonance , all speakers and headphones (and cd players and turntables) suffer from it. The,same amount of energy going out from your speakers is going back into the enclosures through the speaker surrounds. That's Newton's every action has an equal and opposite reaction. This energy dies down eventually, probably within milliseconds by being converted to heat, and maybe some goes into the air. However there is enough floating around to mess up the speakers which are sitting on a vibrating case trying to send out clean signals.  We play with this problem using spikes for speakers or sorbothane footers. Neither is very effective although you will hear some improvement. Serious damping requires a lot of materials like sobothane glued to the enclosure, headphone case or what ever you have. Use self-stick, or industrial adhesives recommended by Sorbothane,  dense sorbothane (70 duro),  with additional backing on the glued sorb to create cobstrained damping.  I use 4 layers of electrical tape. Use as thick a layer of sorb as you can manage, 1/4, 1/8, 1/2, 1 inch even.  This technology is slowly filtering through the industry but no prediction when it will become universal.