Fuse upgrades? -- 6.3 amp 250v 5X20mm fast blow fuses


I occasional blow a one of these 4 fuses in my McCormack DNA .05 and use cheap fuse replacements costing maybe $.50 a piece.  Can anyone recommend upgrades fuses that might enhance the performance of the amp, but not costing in the SR price range.  Say $1-$5 a piece?   Thanks for any insights.    
whitestix
Gents, thanks again for chiming in on this now-contentious post... could on GK to throw voodoo dust over sound electrical theory.  I am taking auxinput's advice and replace all four rail fuses on my DNA .05 with these ceramic fuses from Bussman, costing $5.00 each. Worth a try.

 

Bussmann 

Miniature Fuses, GDA Series 

Item# GDA-6.300A - FUSE, 6.3A, 250V, F, 5X20mm, CERAMIC 

GDA Series Information
  • 5 x 20 Millimeters
  • 0.05~6.3 Amps
  • 250VAC
  • Fast Acting
  • UL Approvals
The Bussmann GDA Series are a group of low voltage, general purpose miniature fuses. These fuses are designed for use in appliances and consumer electronic equipment.

  • High Breaking Capacity
  • Optional Axial Leads
  • Ceramic Tube
  • Nickel-Plated Brass Endcaps

"Nickel-Plated Brass Endcaps"

that part you do NOT want.

You want silver plated brass.

One can hear the nickel, in a good system. The McCormack is one of those ’good systems’.

When you get the error message, that exact one, you can just reload the page and the post generally appears.

If not, or not wanting to risk losing the post... just kill the extra post afterward. It’s a permanent edit function available for the given poster.

eg, I can still remove all trace of all my posts, on this forum, at least the bits that have not been quoted. One at a time.

As for sound electrical theory, Geoff’s not really throwing fairy dust over it, it is just that measurements have little to do with how the ear or the amplifier works, beyond a vestigial connection.

Somewhere around 99.99 % of the people here who talk about electrical theory and measurement being king do not design and sell amplifiers and have pretty well zero actual lore and knowledge in these areas other than dogmatic text based references. It’s a very poor and weak position. Like debating football or hockey. Armchair stuff. They're not a  player and they're not in the field.
Yes, audiogon is suffering from a lot of web site errors and instability this weekend.  I usually "copy" my entire post before hitting "submit" just in case the site jinks.
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Yeah, I agree that the cheap fuses with nickel plated end caps are not that great.  I just did a comparison of cheap ceramic fuses between Bussman and Littlefuse.  In this case, the Littlefuse brand won out.  The Bussman had somewhat of a warmer/slower sonic signature.  The Littlefuse did not have this warm signature and was clearer/cleaner.  That being said, it was a stop-gap and I already have a couple of Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme fuses on order to replace these, lol.
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However, I don't necessary agree with teo_audio that you want silver-plated brass.  1 - silver plated can be useful, but in some situations it is just too fast/bright/harsh.  2 - Brass has never had good results whenever I have tested with it.  Brass usually pushed too hard on the signal and can come across as too strong/harsh.
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Furutech have wire/end-caps are pure copper that is Rhodium plated.  Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme is a silver/gold mix for the wire/end-caps.  Both are excellent, but have different results.
The better fuses from the mentioned companies have beryllium copper end cap available, IIRC. Brass is the second down on the preferred ’cheapies’ list. so,silver plated beryllium copper or what is normally available: tin plated beryllium copper end caps. IIRC, of course.

Digikey probably has the best search engine around for figuring all this out, re targeting the desired items...