2. home-theater
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MidFi multi channel solution needed for HT.

Due to financial position currently, I can't purchase what I want, so to fill the short term need ... I need a multi channel solution below a $4000 threshold. My speakers demand plenty of high quality power to perform at their best, so I am looking to fill that void that was once filled with high end 2 ch separates. If anyone could comment on their own experiences with any of the below solutions I would appreciate it.

Looking for anyone to comment or suggest on their experience they addressed themselves or have helped others reach a well thought out conclusion on same topic. I am looking for a best quality AVR or separate solution. Not necessarily one with the most features. Budget is $2k-4k

Looking for suggestions from those that have had experience with high quality AVRs or midfi AV separates. Entertaining the following products / companies, not in any particular order.

Considering the following AVRs

NAD t777v3 - great sound has Dirac, but unclear if replacement is coming shortly
Arcam -- buggy and unreliable track record but great sound
Cambridge cx200 - no RC to speak of other than REW 3rd party
Lexicon RV9 - unproven track record since Harman acquired them.
Rotel RMB1580 - expensive
Anthem MRX720 - rumor has it that ARC is 2nd to Dirac.

Not considering any other AVRs as a powered solution. But, I am considering a possible use of denon or marantz avr as a preamp as a midfi separates setup, but not sure how the sound quality would compare to the above AVRs.

1. Outlaw 976 with 5-7ch amp ( ati, monoprice, outlaw, rotel or other midfi amp)
2. Midfi AVR such as ( denon 6x00 or Marantz701x ) with separate amplifiers

My biggest stumbling block in the decision process is whether or not the Outlaw 976 will be 'better' than any of the listed solutions on the preamp and processing end of things. And I am hesitant to jump on board with the Outlaw 976, due to major omissions ( no upgrade path, no network or usb connections ). And the tech support is questionable. But if it sounds hands above the rest, I would gladly consider it.

Looking forward to hearing what others can suggest.

current components:

b&w cdm9nt with matching center ch
Kimber Kable 8tc
Kimber Kable ICs



Thx in advance.
lightfighter2018
auxinput
1,538 posts
 
That Audioquest NRG-2 is about the minimum I would suggest for a DIY project.  The Audioquest NRG-4 and NRG-5 cables are much better.  The NRG-5 actually has the best copper but it is 14awg.  The NRG-4 still has very excellent copper, but it is larger at 13awg.  All of my cables are Audioquest NRG-4 that have been chopped and terminated with Furutech FI-28 rhodium plugs.  Each one is pretty much a $400-450 investment, but I think it will outperform many other manufactured cables that are a lot more.  The NRG-4 and NRG-5 cables are more expensive, of course.
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You don't necessarily have to replace the IEC inlet on the Marantz.  You can if you want, but you really have to look inside to see what the stock inlet is like.  Sometimes they are attached/mounted directly on a circuit board and you cannot do anything with this.  If it's a standard inlet with wires attached via clips, you can replace it.  Furutech makes several IEC inlets and some have a built-in filter.  I would recommend the rhodium, as gold-plated will increase the warmth and roll off the highs on the Marantz.

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The fuse is something that you only have to buy if it blows.  It does not require any sort of maintenance.  However, stock fuses are not always the best sounding.  I recommended the Hi-Fi Tuning silver fuses because the Marantz is so warm and needs all the "silver" you can get to increase the speed and resolution.  Of course, if you want to see how the Marantz sounds "stock", that's totally fine.  You might feel just fine with the sound.  If you do get the fuse, be aware that it has a 12-14 day burn in (you need to keep the Marantz turned on 24 hours a day for about 2 weeks).  The fuse will go through all sorts of changes, from sounding bright/harsh in the midrange to very warm/mushy.

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I will also agree with caphill that you should NOT get any Rotel amp that is a Class D circuit.  They will sound weak and anemic and will not have bass impact or be engaging at all!  The normal Rotel Class AB amps are very excellent, however.
auxinput
1,538 posts
 
Oh, if you got a different HT Processor, you might consider how the synergy would work with the amp, but the Maratnz is so warm sounding that I think you really need silver/rhodium on the IEC plug (probably silver is best).
lightfighter2018 OP
75 posts
 
Caphill.
Auxinput.

Thanks.

Will order the silver fuses and the power cable ends you suggest. I may be able to get the nrg4 or 5 steeply discounted if Magnolia carries them. Not sure if Magnolia carries entire Audio Quest line. Will have to make a phone call this week.

Speaking of Class D vs Class A/AB ... do either of you - or anyone else for that matter still feel that class D in general all sound anemic compared to A/AB?

I have heard they have gotten better, but not sure class D has climbed the hurdle of having the ’oomph’ that A and AB are so well known.

Thanks.

Are audio quest IC cables decent? If so - which ones at minimum should I take a look at?

Suggestions on USB, Cat6, Toslink, SPDIF cables?
auxinput
1,538 posts
 
The NRG-5 is an older cable and is no longer made. 

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The problem with the Rotel Class D is likely because of the switching power supply they use.  Also, not all Class D circuits are the same or act the same.  If you are interested in getting a Class D solution, the ATI amplifiers (AT52x and AT54x) are much better designs that use a full linear power supply and the latest "nCore" amp board technology.  There are other manufacturers as well.  My impressions of Class D is that the amp can sound extremely clean with excellent separation of insturments and clarity.  However, it lacks that very high frequency resolution or "air" that adds life to the music.  Many people love their Class D amps, but I prefer the Class AB type.
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I think Audioquest cables are pretty decent because they all use a 21awg solid core conductor.  I think 20awg is the sweet spot, but 21awg is just fine.  You then have to look at how good of copper you want and what kind of terminations (either gold-plated or silver-plated).  The more expensive models have the DBS battery thing which I have never tested.  Wire World also has very excellent cables.

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For Toslink, don't even try to use them because the are the worst digital transfer, but if you absolutely have to , Lifatec cables are the best for the money.
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For digital COAX, if you are on a budget, get the Beldon 1694A from Blue Jeans cables and minimum 6 feet for any digital cable.  If you have money, then spend $230 or so on DH Labs D-750 cable.  Or somewhere in between with an Audioquest digital COAX.   For USB/Cat6, I don't know, but I do know that silver or pure silver is the best for any digital cable.
lightfighter2018 OP
75 posts
 
auxinput.

Thx.  I will check out the Audioquest gear since I have a contact withing Magnolia.




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