I'm kinda with Erik. Filter caps can blow your fingers off. That just isn't a mistake you make.
I've looked over the schematic. There are no left or right channel filter caps. (You really should have known that before warming the soldering iron.) That capacitor arrangement references the output of a single rectifier to the center tap of the power transformer secondary and chassis ground to create a bipolar power supply. Your mistake lifted that ground and put the full output of the rectifier onto one rail. Something seems to have failed closed, and that's what transistors tend to do. My guess would be drivers since the small signal devices are getting their power from the regulated supply on a totally different transformer secondary.
The first step to trouble shooting would be to pull the outputs and test those using the diode function on a DMM, and if they check good, pull the driver transistors and check those. You can't check them on the board. All the signal path transistors are matched pairs. They must go in exactly where they came out, pin for pin. You've got a cell phone. Take lots of detailed pictures. Triple check. Also check the H717 through H720 diodes. Don't try powering on the unit again until you've constructed a dim bulb tester. If you don't know what one is, Google it. They're easy to build and one would have probably avoided this altogether.
I've looked over the schematic. There are no left or right channel filter caps. (You really should have known that before warming the soldering iron.) That capacitor arrangement references the output of a single rectifier to the center tap of the power transformer secondary and chassis ground to create a bipolar power supply. Your mistake lifted that ground and put the full output of the rectifier onto one rail. Something seems to have failed closed, and that's what transistors tend to do. My guess would be drivers since the small signal devices are getting their power from the regulated supply on a totally different transformer secondary.
The first step to trouble shooting would be to pull the outputs and test those using the diode function on a DMM, and if they check good, pull the driver transistors and check those. You can't check them on the board. All the signal path transistors are matched pairs. They must go in exactly where they came out, pin for pin. You've got a cell phone. Take lots of detailed pictures. Triple check. Also check the H717 through H720 diodes. Don't try powering on the unit again until you've constructed a dim bulb tester. If you don't know what one is, Google it. They're easy to build and one would have probably avoided this altogether.