Turntables

I believe digital or vinyl completely depends on the personality type, not so much which one necessarily sounds better.

I dont believe the personality manifests itself the same in everybody, but I believe each persons road to vinyl is chosen due to certain qualities in life they have experienced and desire. And it’s how and why they learn to desire these qualities that directs them to their particular format.

For instance, I’m an architect, for me having createable control with something authentic is important. So you can see that being able to pick the pieces (cart, table, phono pre, loading, alighnment, etc), and having a piece of vinyl with physical gooves you can see and feel (but don’t!) with your eyes and hands, and finally placing it on the table watching the platter spin, then dropping the needle and hearing the drop has a tangle quality that would appeal to me. It is "me" that controls the final sound, and it is me that reaps the benefits or not, thus there is a greater reward for all my diligence. It takes a certain level of craft in TT design that appeals to an architect as well.  There is also the uniqueness aspect for me, being that every LP is unique (ticks, pops, pressing, etc) that adds to its authenticity. 

Now compare that to my brother, a NASA rocket engineer who desires efficient, exact design with minimal error, what do you think he listens to?

BTW I’m sure there are many engineers who listen to vinyl, I’m saying given my brothers specific life experiences, anyone who would meet him would bet,he’d be a digital guy - and you’d be right.

Oops.  Never mind my previous post. Somehow posted in wrong forum. 

luvrockin,

I'm a digital head having two players, four dacs, and stream from my PC. But when I finally took the plunge back into vinyl after many years I settled on a Pro ject 1.3 Genie that came with a Pearl cart. I later moved to a Ortofon Blue 2M cart which sounds much better. As for a phono stage I found a used Monolithic PS-1 with a separate power supply and has adjustable dip switches in the back for settings per the cart recommendations. The 1.3 is belt driven and the motor is on the outside of the platter. This seems to be popular now with other models of late. Pro ject makes more expensive models based on the style of the 1.3 but for a entry level item I feel I did okay. Best of luck with your search.

Hi
Wow! Advice is all over the place with regard your question! Looks like MANY did not read the post where you said you bought a table and cartridge. I don’t know anything about either of choices. 
Here’s my advice, having nothing to do with what you chose and having everything to do with set-up. Go to sound-smith.com and watch his YouTube videos and read articles by Peter Ledermann from S-S. He speaks to turntable set-up and the importance of correct Vertical Tracking Angle, Rake Angle, arm/cart resonance interface, and tracking force all of which are CRITICAL to get the best from your new/used equipment.
You stated that you wanted to buy less-fussy equipment for your first new foray.  I think that would have been a poor choice, as others said here.  I’m glad you bought an adjustable TT and new cart- good way to go. 
(Aside: I don’t think the phono step-up you bought is equivalent to your amplifier quality however, as it is important to revealing the resolution that I’m sure you are accustomed to with your front end.)
Seriously look at the resonance of your arm/cartridge choice.
I had purchased a turntable with a low compliance arm and a low resonance MC cart available “everywhere” as a “combo” with Pro-ject RPM3 and Blue Point No. 3.  It wasn’t for me! (for sale on eBay right now)  I’m running an RPM 10.1 and ancient Grace F9e (purchased by me in 1984- retapped). It has a stiff arm and super-high resonance cart. (you can hear the third violinist shift his feet. LOL).  You can go the other way too, with a compliant arm and a low compliance cartridge. 

Look to the vinylengine forum for an evaluator. It’s very rough though. 
 
This from Ortofon: (much more  accurate formula)

“Resonance frequency can be calculated by using the formula 
f = 1000 : (2 x π x √ (M x C)) where:
f - Cartridge resonance frequency in Hz
π - 3.14159265359...
C - Cartridge compliance lateral in µm/mN
M - Total tonearm system mass which is a sum of Mass of cartridge, Mass of headshell and screws and effective mass of tone arm (all values in gram).

• Resonance frequency within 7-12Hz is optimal for the system. 
• Resonance frequency slightly outside optimal interval 6,5-7Hz and 12-14Hz can be considered as a possible that probably can be used without problems.
• Resonance frequency outside the interval 6,5-7Hz and 12-14Hz is questionable, and the system might not work properly.”

Take the time to set it up, or find a local dealer or friend to help. If you purchase the correct arm/cart combination, and set it up correctly you will not be disappointed!

Best to you. Happy New Year!

Bentunderground