My JL Audio sub is dead. What exactly happened?


So at my wife's request, I hooked up a Roku to my main system. Roku is a device for internet streaming movies and tv. The connection between the Roku and my preamp, a Meridian G68, was a 12 foot optical cable.

The first night, I hook up the Roku and it works perfectly.

The next night, I move some cables around, then I hook up the Roku again, exactly the same way as the previous evening. I get picture but no sound. Weird. I pondering what I might have done wrong when out of the speakers... POP. POP! POP!!!

Uh oh.

I dive for the amps, switch them off. The POPs stop immediately. But...

Now there's a TERRIFYING HIGH PITCHED PULSATING NOISE coming from somewhere in the room. I finally realize it's coming from the sub, a JL Audio Fathom 113. I dart across the room, switch it off.

I stand frozen, savoring the final moments of the fantasy that maybe things aren't that bad.

Here are some questions in no particular order...

1. I suspect the amp in the sub is fried. Does that sound right?

2. Where did those POPs come from? Could a damaged optical cable do it? Or maybe the optical cable wasn't fully seated?

3. Do I really have to ship this 150 pound sub to Florida? Or do you think there's any chance of finding someone local to fix it? (I'm in L.A.) The sub is out of warranty, btw.

4. I tried to take the panel off the rear of the amp (I know, lethal voltages inside) with the thought that maybe I would just bring the amp portion of the sub to someone local to fix. I removed about 12 screws from the rear panel and still it doesn't budge. Why can't I open this thing?

If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears. If not, thanks for reading.

Bryon

P.S. The rest of the system appears to be fine.
bryoncunningham
It’s not just the v1 Fathoms though.   I’ve got a pair of e-sub112 that both failed within 12 months!

Same issues.  They were making pops for months.  I thought it was noise on my mains, but they both died within weeks of each other.

The UK distributor was very helpful.  Took them back & replaced the Amp plates.
I’ve asked repeatedly for a detailed explanation as to what exactly failed & for some guarantees the faults have been put right (so they won’t fail in another 12 months), but I don’t get any answers.

IMHO, JL Audio need to come out & let us know what these issues are & what they’re doing to rectify the problem.   Or risk denting their reputation.
Every single E112 and E110 I’ve owned, and every one of my friends have owned, have all had their amps replaced. A few of them TWICE. I have moved on to the Paradigm Defiance X series (NOT the V series, those are not anything special) subs. They are just as musical, way cheaper, and have incredible room correction built in.  Only problem is their size.  They are a bit bigger than the comparable JL.  Anyone want to buy some E112s? ;)
@contuzzi

Yep I can confirm that, I have 3 fathoms that needed amp replacements. They are the least durable subs I’ve ever owned. Everytime they died was with no music playing, the subs were just on and "pop" and the amp died. Plenty of mass market cheap subs out there in the market that have better reliability than JL.
Got my F113 fixed for the 2nd time. No issues since, as I have NOT left it on in standby mode, as I believe the standby power supply is the root of the problem.
JL drivers quite good.  Attaching so so plate amps to a vibtarating box, not so smart.   

I would recommend buying a higher quality amp not attached to the vibrating box.