Akai 747 w/DBX question


Hopefully there are still some reel to reel folks out there. So I currently have the 747 w/out DBX, and I have an opportunity to pick up the DBX version from a local person who owns a rather hi end audio store here in town. My question is: Is the Dynamic range extension worth the extra coin over the non DBX version? I don't record music from CD's to tape, and the added DBX if it works well should do wonders for recording from vinyl. I have owned reel to reels all my life but never this piece. Just curious if its worth the effort, and if you think it will it be an improvement.  
barnettk
@johnss 
"Incidently the Vishays do wonders for MM and MC cart loading positions, but not trying to hi jack the thread. "

I am perfectly fine with talking about whatever so it all fits IMO. 

I think these are all good ideas, and the more I think about it I would rather make the deck sound better nativily without adding additional components. Sounds like a better option to me. I was considering re-capping it anyway. So I will see how much my tech will charge me to get that done (adding the Vishays, and replacing the caps. 

Question 1: In regards to replacing  the wire from the head to the PCB with Mogami Console wire. What will this do for me? allow me to add the Dolby A since the ones I have seen have what appears to be a console connector instead of line level?? I have never heard of doing  this so excuse my ignorance on that. 

Question 2: In regards to head demagnetization. Do I need to damag the erase head or only the playback and record heads? I have a demagnetizer, and the way I did it was as follows: Start about 6 feet out and slowly work my way to the head (without touching it) then slowly work my way back away from the head. The first time I attempted this I just got nervous because the closer I got to the head the device seemed to vibrate in a way that, well frankly scared me. Plus its a time consuming process and it was getting pretty warm.. I guess thats normal but I was just afraid I could possibly do some damage to the deck, by  possibly causing some harm to the machines other parts, boards, etc. 
I hope you weren’t using a bulk tape eraser. Those are way too powerful to demagnetize a tape deck, and have pretty short duty cycles  
sleepwalker65355 posts01-09-2019 10:26pmI hope you weren’t using a bulk tape eraser. Those are way too powerful to demagnetize a tape deck, and have pretty short duty cycles  

No its a head demagnetizer with the rubber coated tip. 
also I was careful to remove the reels when I did it. Now this was about a year or two ago.. maybe longer. I put that thing in a drawer and have not looked at it since. Scared the crap out of me haha. 
barnettk

I have a demagnetizer, and the way I did it was as follows: Start about 6 feet out and slowly work my way to the head (without touching it) then slowly work my way back away from the head.
That is not the correct way to use a head de-mag, according to the instructions I’ve seen that accompany them. The de-mag should be placed close to the head - not touching, as you state - and then energized. After rotating it closely around the head (or tape guide), the de-mag should then be gradually drawn away from the head, and then switched off.