This question is aimed to TRUE Elec Engineers, not fuse or wire directionality believers.



Has any of you ACTUALLY worked with and recommend a SSR which does not introduce any audible distortion on the speaker line and which can operate with a large range of trigger voltages (12 - 48 VDC, may need to have on board voltage regulator for this range).  I am building a speaker DC protector and do not want to use electro mechanical relays becoz of DC arcing and contact erosion issues.  It needs to be capable of switching up to 15 amps at about 100 volts.

Only TRUE engineers reply please.

Thanks

128x128cakyol
"That’s because there is no need. I’ve got plenty of scopes but its academic." Sorry to say, that’s what I expected. Regarding, "Ask any speaker designer." I made my living, in Orlando/Winter Park, FL, repairing/reconing speakers, designing/building and selling pro and home audio speaker systems, back in the 70s and early 80s. The ’Great Winter Park Sinkhole’, pretty much put me out of business. It ate part of my property(along with all utilities) and three neighboring businesses, almost bought it as well(two did, not that any of that matters). Happy listening! https://www.orlandosentinel.com/news/nationworld/os-fla360-pictures-winter-park-sinkhole-20121113-ph...
Yikes!! Sorry to hear about that!
Did you ever see a case where the tweeter was damaged by a shorted output transistor? I only saw it happen if the amplifier was overloaded (in which case the woofer often survived).
@ramtubes, I am aware that MOStTSSRs use thyristors and are not suitable for audio applications.  They are designed for motor controls.  That is why I am getting ones made with back to back Mosfets.  Pls see my post above regarding the audio SSRs specifically made for this purpose that are being sold by Holton electronics in down under.
Can’t say as I had. Then again, I’d expect whatever voltage was getting into the system, to follow the path of least resistance. Even with an inductor(as opposed to a cap), the woofer would be the first victim and(if playing music at the moment) the caps in the crossover, would already be charged/blocking. My home systems(even the 8", 2 way) were all warranted to handle 356 Watts(peak program). Far as clipping, I twisted the cathodes of a couple Zeners(voltage chosen according to the particular tweeter) together, stuck them in a TO-39 heatsink, and hot-melt-glued them on the crossover board, across the tweeter leads. The only condition in the warranty: If the glue was melted out of the sink, they only got the first tweeter free, along with a verbal treatise on amplifier clipping(sold a few Haflers that way). Only ever had to warranty one pair. Replaced LOTS of other brands’ tweeters for the many college students, in that area and installed/sold lots of those little protection devices. As a result, I regained my love/passion for college parties. What sucked was having just put down $30K, on a $130K building(land contract), one month b4 the sinkhole. You’d have to remember the economy, and how hard it was to get a commercial loan, back in 1980. NO banks were doing it(in Florida, anyway) and $30K was a lot more money, back then. I was always in the Black, b4 that. Again: Sorry to the OP, for the hijacking! https://www.electronicsurplus.com/thermalloy-aavid-2228b-hardware-heatsink-for-to-39-or-to-5-compone...