Anyone Damp the insides of your Speaker Cabinets?

There are many ways of bracing, but introducing anything that affects the internal reflective properties of an enclosure may result in acoustic changes that are undesirable.

Shelves with hole(s) are used often, but it is calulated and incorporated into the enclosure design.

The technique in a prior post about using table legs to brace the sides has a lot of merit, in that it has the least impact on internal soundwave reflections or the possibility of creating standing wave traps.

Installing large diameter (1" - 2") wooden dowels in a finished enclosure can be probelmatic, but not unsolveable.

They would need to apply a little bracing pressure on the sides of the cabinet , which will be key in the success of this project. Fastening the dowels in place can be accomplished using epoxy on the ends.

Using seasoned wood is key, since it could shrink.

I have seen round aluminum bars and is worked very well, but in that case the enclosure had double sides and the bars were held in place with bolts hidden by the outer layer

Regards

Ptss, would you please start the thread? I start a new thread every other day, and don't want to be labeled "that guy".

In all honesty, this is the only site I've ever participated in, in any way, so its a learning experience all the way around for me. I've said a bunch of things I regret (it's on here forever, for all to see...) and a bunch of things I wish I never said, lol.

I agree though, time to start a new thread. Damping (huh, huh, notice I didn't say dampening??) has run its course... Black hole, maybe some plasticide on the drivers, etc.

I think damping is more of a way to fine tune. A strong, sturdy enclosure that is braced well should be step one... or steps 1-10!

Ported has alot to do with as well. Most ported JBL I have had just had an inch or 2  on all 6 pannels. All sealed boxes were full of foam or fibeglass or polly. Sealed Celestion for example uses foam and stuffs the box other than if there is a passive radiator. You need the airflow between the woofer and the radiator for it to work properly. 

I diy’d my speakers-bass reflex and a front loaded horn.  Generally, with a ported design I line the walls with .5” wool felt pad and avoid stuffing the enclosure.  A sealed design usually utilizes stuffing.  Transmission line designs use a very specific amount of stuffing based both on the length of the line and the density of the stuffing.  In all cases, bracing is necessary to break up cabinet resonance.  As mentioned in another post, some speakers utilize cabinet resonance as an integral part of the design.   I think Viking Acoustics does this with their Berlin-R.