Please Help: High-End car audio

Ezmeralda11- I can think of several factors that might affect the sound:
1. Some head units provide a lower than typical preamp voltage that would definately affect the ability of the amp to provide great sound.
2. the $70 price for installation is a steal. We're talking 3 pieces of electronics, x-overs, and multi component speakers. I paid about $250 for install on my eclipse system which did not have a separate changer. Many shops would charge $70 just to install an amp.
3. The long IC and wire runs from dash to trunk and back would accentuate any problems there. I hope you bought and received (see #2) good quality here.
4. The amp is, IMO, another likely source of the problem.

Cars are exceeding difficult to get right, everything is even more application specific and there is little if any opportunity for a meaningful audition. However, I would see if you can get the dealer to swap out the amp, and double check on cabling. I would recommend ADS amps, but they will cost at least double what you paid.
3. The amp could have a significant impact on sound.

From Poster to Swampwalker: The amp and speakers I installed myself, the $70 was for both indash units (the changer and the cd receiver). The eclispse claims a 5V preout on my unit which should be sufficient (the one above it had an 8V preout). I've noticed most others start at about 1.8 or 2v and top of at around 4.5v. Now I don't judge the units solely on that number, but I should have enought output (not to mention the amp does have gain to accomadate weaker signals). The interconnects are 16ft runs of Lightning Audio Strike series. The interconnect and speaker cable are down the passenger side and the power and remote lead are down the driver side. At this point I still don't know what to do. To me the sound is "stuck in the drivers" if you know what I mean. It doesn't have that ethereal quality where a sound sounds like its coming from behind the tweeter or something, there's not much air or ambience.

From poster: If its of any consequence the amp is mounted on 3/4" particle board which is then mounted to the metal floor, so its not touching any metal (it even has the rubber sleeves for the screws). All connections are simple crimp on spades. Mids are running full range and tweets have there lows filtered via a 12db high-pass crossover (which I had to build, single coil and cap, I did all the soldering). Speaker cables is 16gauge radio shack. I figured if nothing else, since it wasn't the best amp in the world, give it a little help by lowering the overall resistance giving it slightly better midbass control for a couple of bucks. I don't know if the Nakamichi is the ticket.

Ez- You're right, the 5v output should be sufficient. Sorry, I can't say much about sound being "stuck in the drivers". My Eclipse set up (w/eclipse speakers) is in my Jeep Cherokee with a rack and box on top. At 70 mph, sometimes its hard not to drive the 50 wpc ADS to clipping. But when I'm stationary, it sounds pretty good, tonally. But I'm not looking for imaging. One issue might be where the drivers are mounted. I have the mid/woof in the standard front door cut out and the tweets on an angled surface mount provided with the eclipse, on the kick panels facing up toward the driver. Anyways, I would try swapping out the amp first to see if it helps. Should be easier than re-doing the head unit.

Swampwalker is right. An increase in output isn't going to help, and mounting location and the quality of the installation are paramount to the sound. Partnered with a 35watt pioneer and BA pro 6.5s, I too have an Eclipse. My tonal balance is weak right now (xover needs adjustment), but the imaging and soundstage is as much as you could expect for this price range. Ezmeralda, from how you have recently described your sound, it really seems that it is a problem with your speakers and/or amp. Maybe a defect, maybe bad mojo. I'd go to a couple of car audio places and have them check it out, especially if this is the first time you have mounted seperates yourself.