VPI 16.5 Problem


Hi, picked up a used VPI 16.5 here on audiogon--eventually the law of used had to catch up to me, I guess. Worked great for about a dozen albums, but since then the vacuum seems to overpower the turntable--having no knowledge of how the turntable works, it is acting like there was a loose drive belt. So, vacuum really, really works, motor for turntable works, turntable spins (though sometimes starts slowly and then speeds up to normal operating speed), but when both on, turntable stops rotating (motor continues). Any ideas before I take to a repair shop? Thanks very much.

I have 12 beautifully cleaned albums, though.
jhsjhs
A common, and easily rectifiable problem with the 16.5.

The center of the cork mat is removeable. that this carefully off. Then you will see 3 attachment screws that hold the Platter to the Motor-Platter Arbor. Remove them, and lift Platter off.

There is commonly, two Allen Locking Set Screws that hold the Platter-Motor Arbor to the actual Electrical Motor Shaft. Loosen these Allen Locking Set Screws to fist make note of the ground flat on the Motor Shaft.

You want to insure that these 2 locking screws are locked down upon the flat of the Motor Shaft to insure correct tightening of the Arbor to Motor Shaft.

Once the Arbor has been correctly positioned, and tighted to Motor Shaft, then you may re-install Platter to Arbor, re-install center cork cutout, and you're done!

This more than likely occurs, due to the heating-cooling cycles of the motors, and the screws work loose after awhile.

While toying with the machine, get familiar with it, there's noting you can really hurt. Check things like making sure Drain Hose is properly tightened to the Recovery Tank inside, and that all appears to be in order. Always make sure when doing a cleaning run, that you fully clamp the drain hose shut tight, and get in the habit of every 1/2 dozen records or so, to drain the Recovery Tank. Failure to do so, will damage the Vacuum Motor. Mark
Do not just try to pull the platter off. I had a similar issue and the splindle was loose. Around the spindle there is a part of the cork which is removable (I used an exacto knife). Under that there are three screws. You can then see the spindle and it is anchored by two hex screws. Mine needed to be tightened, yours may too.
I will give all this a try tonight given time, and let people know. Thanks for all the help.
JHSJHS I posted a thread recently on AudioAsylum with a detailed step by step on this, in the Vinyl area, just search on vpi 16.5, it was yesterday, with detailed instructions on how to crank down the hub set screws. This is a common issue and most likely the cause of your record stopping spinning. Hope this helps.
I found the following on Audio Asylum (thanks to Cjnolan), and followed it except for the loctite suggestion, as I didn't have any. I will do that later. It worked, and I am back in business. Thanks, all!

--Remove the center cork piece. I use a very small flat head screw driver to prop it up. It's helpful to make a little mark with a sharpie so you can align this piece right when you put it back on (a little dot on the seam is all)
--Unscrew the 3 screws holding the platter, remove the platter
--You will see 8 screws. 4 smaller, 4 larger.
--Remove the 4 smaller screws
--Remove the 4 larger screws and remove the metal plate. Note when you remove the last one, the motor will be free and can drop into the box. No big deal, you can reach it easily. I use a screw driver to sort of prop up the motor/gearbox assembly.
--Now you need to look a at the hub mounted to the motor. You'll see 2 hex screws that hold the hub to the axle. There should be no ability to twist the hub without the axle turning and the hub should not slide up and down except for a little slack in the axle bushings. Basically, it should be tight.
--You will need a hex wrench or hex driver. Remove the 2 hex screws. Make sure the aluminum hub is pressed down on the shaft and the holes are centered to where they've been cranked down in the past (you should see marks on the shaft)
--Use a little BLUE loctite (this is the removable one!). Put a very small amount (I mean, just enough to cover the bottom 2 threads is enough, not even a drop) on the threads of one of the hex screws. Screw it in hand tight. Do the same for hex screw #2.
--Crank these both down good and tight. But not TOO tight, this is aluminum we're talking about. I like to tighten each side a little at a time so the torque is even on both sides.
--Reassemble in reverse. Be careful when cranking down the screws that go into aluminum (the platter and hub screws) and the screws that go into wood (the 4 smaller screws). Don't strip them or cross thread them. You'll have a bad day if you do.