I found the following on Audio Asylum (thanks to Cjnolan), and followed it except for the loctite suggestion, as I didn't have any. I will do that later. It worked, and I am back in business. Thanks, all!
--Remove the center cork piece. I use a very small flat head screw driver to prop it up. It's helpful to make a little mark with a sharpie so you can align this piece right when you put it back on (a little dot on the seam is all)
--Unscrew the 3 screws holding the platter, remove the platter
--You will see 8 screws. 4 smaller, 4 larger.
--Remove the 4 smaller screws
--Remove the 4 larger screws and remove the metal plate. Note when you remove the last one, the motor will be free and can drop into the box. No big deal, you can reach it easily. I use a screw driver to sort of prop up the motor/gearbox assembly.
--Now you need to look a at the hub mounted to the motor. You'll see 2 hex screws that hold the hub to the axle. There should be no ability to twist the hub without the axle turning and the hub should not slide up and down except for a little slack in the axle bushings. Basically, it should be tight.
--You will need a hex wrench or hex driver. Remove the 2 hex screws. Make sure the aluminum hub is pressed down on the shaft and the holes are centered to where they've been cranked down in the past (you should see marks on the shaft)
--Use a little BLUE loctite (this is the removable one!). Put a very small amount (I mean, just enough to cover the bottom 2 threads is enough, not even a drop) on the threads of one of the hex screws. Screw it in hand tight. Do the same for hex screw #2.
--Crank these both down good and tight. But not TOO tight, this is aluminum we're talking about. I like to tighten each side a little at a time so the torque is even on both sides.
--Reassemble in reverse. Be careful when cranking down the screws that go into aluminum (the platter and hub screws) and the screws that go into wood (the 4 smaller screws). Don't strip them or cross thread them. You'll have a bad day if you do.
